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1000mm X 1500mm OX CNC -- Garolite

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by SlyClockWerkz, Nov 2, 2014.

  1. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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  2. Bear

    Bear Well-Known
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    WOWZA! Wish I would have ordered your plates instead of getting mine cut at a local water jet company!
    Now that I have assembled my ox I can really appreciate the small upgrades you have made to the plates, good work!
     
  3. Steve123

    Steve123 Journeyman
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    Nice job SlyClockWerkz! I like the drag knife. Have you had a chance to test it out?
     
    ChrisV likes this.
  4. planga

    planga Well-Known
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    Hey Sly!

    Nice job! I was getting ready to order some garolite (or similar phenolic material) and have some parts cut soon, then I saw that you are selling your set. I want to order your parts (probably this week), but wanted to know if when I order them, could you provide me with the source for your material? I want to cut some other custom parts and will want to use the same material that you used so that if I leave them the natural color (maybe clear coat it), my parts will match yours. Although I'm not sure the natural color will look nice clear coated so I may also decide to paint them. ;)

    Anyway, thanks and I look forward to placing my order.
     
  5. planga

    planga Well-Known
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    Oh, one more thing? What kind of Garolite is it, G10? Thanks again.
     
  6. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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    The garolite is type XX (originally recommended by mark of openbuilds). During my searching i found that anything 'stronger' than XX in garolite gets to be pretty expensive. Id be happy to share my source with you, but if you are looking for matching the materials you may be dissapointed. My first order is a few shades lighter than my most recent order (so you may be unlucky and end up with a different shade). maybe i could sell you a few chunks from the same sheet, so colors are consistent.
     
  7. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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    Yes, but i was rushed and didnt fix the material i was cutting down quite well enough and results werent favorable. Im hoping to test it out again sometime soon :)
     
  8. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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    Also, for those interested in the plates i have two "scratch and dent" sets where the cutouts for cable management on the side plates came out slightly irregular. I need to tweak the programing alittle for those spots. Otherwise everything else is as it should be. Theyll be 10$ off. If interested leave a note in the "instructions to seller" box during checkout about scratch and dent and ill refund you 10$.

    Now im just waiting on a shipment of garolite
     
  9. DMJ711

    DMJ711 Well-Known
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    @SlyClockWerkz Sent you an email through your website on the 4th asking about lead time for a set of plates and a picture of the scratch and dent set... I have gotten no response...
     
  10. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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    Sorry! I had some problems with that bit of functionality on the site so i removed it a while back. Both sets of scratch and dent have sold. I do have a set ready to ship on monday though
     
  11. DMJ711

    DMJ711 Well-Known
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    Ok I just ordered a set through your site.
     
    SlyClockWerkz likes this.
  12. planga

    planga Well-Known
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    Hello,

    Got my plates a while back. They look very nice! I've just started painting them (orange) and am now test fitting / making sure I have all the right hardware.

    I have a question, not sure if it's a problem or not. The Z axis mounting plate (bottom left plate in your picture), has 2 sets of holes for the spacer blocks to mount to. One side has 5 small holes, which seems correct. The other side has a combination of larger and smaller holes (3 large and 2 small). The large holes are the holes to be used for the bolts that mount the wheels. When you mount the wheels using these larger holes, there is a lot of variation as to where the wheels can be tightened into position. This doesn't seem right. The original OX has all small holes on both sides (from watching the construction video anyway). I have also seen some variations that have both (a row of small and larger holes on each side). So I was wondering, are the holes wrong (should both sides be the small holes?), or am I missing the point of the larger holes?

    Also the holes used to bolt the spacer blocks into place (2 on each side) are slightly out of line (too close together I think). I can easily fix this, but thought I'd point it out in case this part needs to be adjusted in the future.

    Thanks,
    -Patrick
     
  13. SlyClockWerkz

    SlyClockWerkz Veteran
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    Hi Patrick,
    Good to hear that you're getting your build underway. I'm excited to see some orange plates :D
    Regarding the spacing on the holes for the spacer blocks mounting, a design flaw in the original cad drawings for the plates was recently addressed with openbuilds releasing a new design/cad file with the proper spacing. I apologize for the defect, and if it turns out to be a larger issue please get a hold of me and I can help you out ;)

    The row of the holes with 3 larger, and 2 small utilize the eccentric spacers. The row with the small holes are all fixed, the v slot is then "tightened" in between the two sets of wheels via the v wheels with the eccentrics. The 3 larger holes allow the length of the bolt to move in and out with the movement of the eccentric movement. I recommend using washers on these connections.
     
  14. planga

    planga Well-Known
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    OK, so I'm pretty sure that the larger holes I mentioned in my previous post are for the bolts that mount the wheels and use the eccentric spacers. That gives the bolts the freedom to move as you adjust the eccentric spacers. Is this correct? If so, then you'd probably just want to loosen those bolts slightly to adjust the wheels with the eccentrics, then tighten the bolts fully after the wheels are in the proper position. Might be good to use some washers on the bolt heads too since they are in larger holes.

    I'll post some pictures of the painted parts after I'm done. I think if you want to paint your parts, the paint should adhere to these Garolite parts better than aluminum. I have painted a few of the little aluminum plates that mount the ends of the table together, and have already gotten some small chips right down to the aluminum. I did properly prep the aluminum and used metal primer... still seems to chip fairly easily. The paint on the Garolite parts seems much more durable / chip resistant.
     
  15. planga

    planga Well-Known
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    Thanks! I posted my last response before I saw yours. So yeah, those holes are for the eccentrics.

    I can deal with the block mounting holes being slightly off. It's very slight and I can open them up just a hair.

    I'll try to post some pics over the weekend.

    Thanks again!
     
    SlyClockWerkz likes this.

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