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3D Printing Tips & Tricks

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by JustinTime, Mar 24, 2015.

  1. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    I'm starting 3D printing and there is a lot I don't know about it. Not the least is how to get a good print out of my machine. Sharing your little tricks will be greatly appreciated!

    Adam, you hit the nail smack dap on the head with what I struggle and I still do after reading your explanation. If the hole is a cone shape hole I thought that it will build itself because of the slope. What I don't know is how to 'bridge' the top of the hole if it is not cone shape. How will putting a membrane will solve the problem since the membrane needs support too.
    Untitled.png
    This a cross-section of what I'm talking about. How would you do the small cylinder?
     
  2. dddman

    dddman Master
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    I don't really understand what you're trying to do...
     
  3. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Carl said that he puts a membrane to help make a small cylinder on top of a big cylinder. I don't get it where he puts it. He answered in the other thread but I still didn't understand (I'm kind of slow in things like this :( ). Is the membrane in the bottom of the above drawings? They are just a cross section, BTW.

    I thought this should be taken out of Carl's thread since it will be lost if someone looks for it in the future. Also, a place where all kind of tips or tricks of how to get things printed for best results will make it easier to search/find.
     
  4. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Some of my experience with ABS printing.

    The biggest problem I had was with the ABS sticking to the plate.

    Make sure the extruder is touching the glass. The first layer has to be squished on to the bed. If it is not squished it doesn't stick well.

    After reading a lot I ended up with these processes. For small stuff, like a 30x30x30 cube I just use ABS slurry. I don't even tried to make the slurry at any specific ratio. I just poured some acetone into a glass and added some discarded/failed prints. When it was all dissolved I apply it to the hot glass bed. About 100°c or so. It sticks enough for the small part. I use a teaspoon to apply it and use the spoon to spread it on the glass.
    Bigger parts I use a little white wood glue diluted with water. I apply it by dipping my finger in the water and quickly spread it on the hot bed. Don't want to burn my finger. LOL Don't go over the same spot twice since it will remove the first layer and the glass remains blank. Once it's very dry I sometimes also put slurry on top of it. My next print will be a 100x60 print that was curling the edges with only the slurry and I'll see how it works with with the white glue and the slurry.
    I also used kapton tape and slurry with great success. The problem I have is that the tape is expensive and the parts stick so well to it that when I try to get it off I damage the tape. Also, reapplying the tape is a tedious job. Applying the white glue and the slurry is much faster and easier.

    On small parts it's not important to make a brim but on big parts a big brim helps with the curling.
     
    #4 JustinTime, Apr 4, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2015
  5. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Untitled.png

    As can be seen it the first post I had problems with over hanging printing. It was suggested using a membrane. I didn't thing that a membrane was a solution. What I found was that if I make a hole for a bearing when I make a skirt 0.2mm thick as a continuation of the through hole the bearing hole closes near perfect and the skirt is only one extrusion thick and breaks off easily. This 0.2mm support works also very well with overhangs.

    Untitled2.png
     
    #5 JustinTime, Apr 4, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2015
    Mark Carew likes this.
  6. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    I would flip them, so as the small cylinder sits under the large cylinder. Thus, the support problem is solved.
     
  7. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    If you flip it the round part is not as round as when printed as shown. Since it's only 8mm diameter it makes a difference.
     

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