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Adamantine

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Kyo, Mar 4, 2015.

  1. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Kyo published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Really nice work on this build @Kyo The SketchUp model is also very well done. This printer looks like a very simple build that would go together quickly. Thank you for sharing!
    Mark
     
  3. Mopar32985

    Mopar32985 Veteran
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    Wow this looks great cant wait to see more info on it!
     
  4. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Thanks guys, Happy to finally have something useful to share after all the great ideas I have gotten here. :) This week I am getting the B.O.M together in my spare time. So I know what I have to order / what I already have.
     
  5. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Not much done on the b.o.m today I am afraid.. I was not happy with the clearance or shape of my X/Z axis or vertical support plates, So today I redesigned them. They now offer more space / clearance and will take less material to make.

    Old
    [​IMG]


    New

    [​IMG]
     
    #5 Kyo, Mar 6, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2015
  6. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Uploaded updated model..
     
  7. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    For V-slot you will need.
    -- 20x60 --
    (x2) 18"
    (x2) 16 3/8"

    --20x40--
    (x2) 14 1/2"
    (x3) 13 1/8"
    (x1) 12 1/2"

    I rounded the cut length's from the exact metric measurement to the closest imperial fraction as that is what I am best able to measure and cut to right now. This means each cut is around 1/64 or 1/32 undersized.. I am hoping this does not end up being a problem as I don't think I could cut each piece by hand to within a 1/64 tolerance any how.

    For Custom Plates you will need.
    (x2) z vertical support plate
    (x2) z top corner plate
    (x2) z top bearing plate
    (x2) z nut spacer
    (x2) z motor mount
    (x1) x mount left inside z plate
    (x1) x mount right inside z plate
    (x1) x motor mount plate
    (x1) x nut mount plate
    (x1) x extruder mount plate
    (x1) left outside z plate
    (x1) name plate
    (x4) corner plate
    (x1) front y bearing plate
    (x1) rear y bearing plate
    (x6) y motor mount spacer

    All plates are 1/4" with the exception of the two "z nut spacer's" they are 3/8" I am also uploading the .stl files for those who want to print the plates. They are on the files tab in the zip folder "Adamantine stl files.zip" I will be adding more to the b.o.m as I can. Once complete I will put it all into a pdf. In tell I have completed a build, I figured publicly listing it will allow others to catch my mistake's. Hopefully before I make them.
     
  8. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Wheel parts needed.
    (x13) solid v-wheel kit
    (x8) 1/4" eccentric spacer
    (x17) 1/4" spacer
    (x10) M5x40mm bolt
    (x3) M5x45mm bolt ( may need to be cut down to 43mm to clear extruder motor )
    (x13) nylon locknut
    (x2) Spacer block ( y axis )

    Z axis parts needed.
    (x2) Nema 17 motor
    (x2) 5mmX8mm flexible coupler
    (x2) 8mm acme lead screw cut to 355mm
    (x2) 8mm lock collar
    (x2) 688Z ball bearing
    (x2) acme nut block
    (x8) M3x45mm bolt
    (x4) M5x30mm bolt ( for acme nut block )
    (x4) M5x8mm bolt ( for motor mount plate )
    (x4) M5 t-nut ( for motor mount plate )
    (x4) M5 nylon locknut ( for acme nut block )

    Y axis parts needed.
    (x1) Nema 17 motor
    (x1) 5mmX8mm flexible coupler
    (x1) 8mm acme lead screw cut to 484mm
    (x2) 8mm lock collar
    (x2) 688Z ball bearing
    (x1) 8mm acme nut block
    (x2) M5x15mm bolts ( for acme nut block )
    (x2) M5 nylon locknut ( for acme nut block )
    (x4) M3x60mm bolts ( for motor mount )

    X axis parts needed.
    (x1) Nema 17 motor.
    (x1) 5mmX8mm flexible coupler
    (x1) 8mm acme lead screw cut to 344mm
    (x2) 8mm lock collar
    (x2) 688z ball bearing
    (x1) 8mm acme nut block
    (x3) 1/4" spacers ( motor mount stand offs )
    (x2) M5x15mm bolts ( acme nut block )
    (x2) M5 nylon locknuts
    (x4) M5x15mm bolts ( to mount x axis gantry, longer is fine )

    Hotend and extruder parts needed.
    I decided to use the setup from the lautr3k as I already built a few for my lautr3k build. My x axis plate has mounting holes for it. If you use a different setup holes/plate may need to be updated for your setup.

    Other misc. parts needed.
    Electronics setup of your choice. ( I will be taking the ramps 1.4 and limit switches from my prusa )
    8x8 heat bed
    -(x2) 1/4" spacers ( for bed mounting )
    -(x2) springs ( for bed mounting )
    -I will be reusing the bolt / nut bed mounting from my prusa

    To mount all of the plates you will need.
    (x70) M5x12mm bolts
    (x8) M5x8mm bolts
    (78) M5 t-nuts

    To assemble main frame you will need.
    (x20) 90* corner brackets
    (x40) M5x8mm bolts
    (x40) M5 t-nuts

    I believe that covers all the main parts you will need, does it look like I skipped over anything?
     
    #8 Kyo, Mar 8, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  9. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I have redrawn the file with all of the proper length lead screws / V-slot linear rail's. Proper bolts and nuts all in place and of the right size and length. New file has been added to the "Files" tab ( Complete Adamantine 3D Printer.skp ). The new file is also of a much smaller size to make for a better download ( 34mb down to 11mb )

    I also did a short screen capture of the printer showing it's movement.
     
    Mark Carew and Larry_AK like this.
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Started to Print the custom plates out of ABS. This will serve two purposes. One allows me to double check my dimensions / design a lot cheaper then getting multiple revisions of aluminum plate cut. It will also go to show it can be built with 3d printed parts in true reprap style.

    Started with the Name plate tonight, and bolted in down to the only piece of V-slot I have ( my maker farm lol ) I need to save up before I can order any V-slot or hardware for this build. In the mean time I will be printing out the plates needed to build it.

    [​IMG]
     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  11. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Nice Job Kyo. :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  12. Danskinn

    Danskinn New
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    Kyo, Do you find the Makerfarm i3v loud? I also have a Mendel Max 1.5 with the old style bed (8mm rods) and it is much quieter.
    I have been trying to use the v-slot system as an alternative to the smooth rods on my Y axis. I have a 1M length of 20x40 v-slot extrusion and now I am wondering if I should also use the lead screw instead of the gt2 belt.

    And great job on the Adamantine!
     
  13. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Sorry for the late reply!

    Thanks,
    I don't find it to loud no! However I have not used smooth rods and bearings before. The Makerfarm I3V was my first 3d printer as such I don't really have a point of reference in that regard. I think it helps my printers stay in my craftroom / shop and I can shut the door. outside of the room I can not even tell the printer is running. It has proven to be a very reliable machine even with its quirks.
     
  14. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Small update, Did a major redesign as I found more then a few errors / complications in my original files. Now has lower part count and fixed mistakes.
    I will post the new updated file tomorrow, for now a sort video overview with me rambling on a bit...

     
    skarab likes this.
  15. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Great video @Kyo and awesome printer design!
    Thank you for sharing
     
  16. stargeezer

    stargeezer Veteran
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    Great build Kyo! I think I'll put one together too. One thing I'll do (and it's just me) will be to make 2 more of the z upright brackets and place them on the inside as well as the outside. That should stiffen that joint that seems just a bit weak, to me.
     
  17. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    "My measurements where always so slightly off"
    This is the STORY OF MY LIFE! :banghead::brb::D

    Unexpected lead times...:banghead::banghead::banghead::ROFL:

    EDIT; Finished watching. I @$!#÷+× love it.
    Great design work!! Are you designing for a living kyo?
     
  18. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Thanks! Happy to share..

    Thank you, Sweet! I look forward to seeing your build. Please feel free to point out any mistakes you catch along the way so I can fix any.. While the older above B.O.M is mostly correct with the updates a few things have changed, the new file should make clear any necessary updates to the bom. I modeled each bolt t-nut ect. ect. to the correct size..

    Great Idea with the inside brackets on the Z axis. The space there is tight but just enough room for a additional bracket. I updated the model.

    Hahaha, Tell me about it, half the time I am my own worst enemy.. Making changes on the fly not updating my cad. ( or not working from the correct file revision ). At lest with digitally building it first I am able to take a step back and double check with out wasting time/materials.


    Thank You :D.. I would like to! I got notebooks upon notebooks just full of ideas. But no it is not my day job. cad / cnc / 3d printers / electronics / software are all a hobby for me. All self taught. Got my first computer when I was 18 and was on dial-up up till a couple years ago. Been absorbing like a sponge ever since.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    I am doing this for a living and let me tell you... embedding flexibility from understanding various parts on the market into you're design, being aware of the possibility and prepping for design changes (always happens), and being aware of the multitude of manufacturer capability and resources are all top qualities to being a mechanical designer. Adaptibility is key. If something goes wrong, gets changed, or isn't avail. a good designer already has a backup plan. Electrical and mechanical engineers love to have designers that have these traits.
    You sir should consider getting that quick piece of paper. Unless you're already loaded and have at least a four car garage...... :)
    In that case, hire me so we can really just end up hanging out and making.
    I didn't proof read this. Don't judge me. lol
     
  20. stargeezer

    stargeezer Veteran
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    All that Joe said x 5! GOOD designer/draftsmen are HARD to find. Anybody we could explain a design to and then could model it without 10 hours of handholding were treated like royalty where I came from! Awesome!

    I've just gotta ask, what is your day job, if you don't mind shareing?
     
  21. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Thanks for the compliments guys, I have always taken apart / rebuilt and designed things as long as I can recall. Both my mother and grandfather have pushed me towards design / drafting / engineering as a career. But if I am honest, I am a terrible student and my math skills are horrific. Much more of a tactile/kinesthetic Learner vs academic.

    Before this I was in sales as the sole u.s distributor of Miata sr20det swap kits and oil pans. Decline in sales and growing family obligations lead me to today where I do a number of things. Primarily I help out my family. I grab the odd research job, as well as long arm quilting when the opportunity arises. I also design quilt patterns ( none published :( Yet! lol ). My mother has me getting this property back into shape, which we are hoping to wrap up by next year.. Considering going to college the year after. But not sure what for as of yet. ( considering something along the lines of machinist or drafting )
     
    #21 Kyo, Sep 22, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  22. stargeezer

    stargeezer Veteran
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    Man, if you don't go for it, you just may be missing your calling. Don't let the math part stop you. Lots of people have had poor even terrible math problems in high school, but discover that they really do great when they see the application of math in collage. If you are going to get a 2 year degree in Drafting and Design you'll just need two or three classes in Mathematics depending on how you do on the admission testing. Hit the study guides hard before taking the tests and you'll do fine.
     
    Kyo likes this.
  23. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Here is the B.O.M. for V3. I left out the Electronics due to all the options out now, but I did included some recommendations that have worked for me.. Another Item left out is the m3 bolt's used to mount the x and y motors it requires a size not at OB. Your local hardware store or mcmaster carr should have m3's suitable.. Let me know if it looks like I missed anything.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. mgcrose

    mgcrose Well-Known
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    Kyo, Great looking build. I am looking to build my first printer and really like this design. Is this fully built and working?

    I have a few questions:
    1. I have been looking for a build with a 300x300x300 build volume. It looks like it would be very straight-forward to scale up this design - just add 100mm to the rails and lead screws. What are your thoughts? Will the motors be strong enough for the extra weight? Any
    2. Do you have any experience with ball screws instead of lead screws? I was thinking this might be a nice upgrade (even if sourcing the part is a bit more difficult).

    And a couple questions on the BOM:
    - 13 solid V-wheels - is that the V-wheel kit or just the individual V-wheel? Based on the count, I think it is the kit.
    - 1mm precision shim - these are the 10x5x1mm shims, correct?
    - HFS-2040-333 - I think this should be HFS5-2040-333?

    Thanks!
     
  25. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Hi Mgcrose,
    First off welcome to openbuilds... Thanks, Parts are inbound and first prototype will begin as things start arriving.

    A1: Yes, you are correct to increase build size each part would only need lengthened. Another great option is the Lautr3k by skarab. It has a 300x300x300 build volume and is also lead screw driven. It was my last build and is a great design. I am using the same motor's for this build that I used for Fina ( my lautr3k build ) they have been working out great (Nema 17's KL17H248-15-4A ).

    A2: I do not know myself , never used them. However everything I have heard from people that have used ball screws for there cnc machines are all good.

    Excellent catch on the B.O.M Mistakes. Yes that should be 13 V-wheel Kits, correct 10x5x1mm precision shims. Correct again that should indeed read HFS5-2040-333.
    Here is the Updated B.O.M
     

    Attached Files:

  26. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    ahhh got to love the smell of freshly unpacked parts :)

    Today I received my
    -MK2B aluminum heat bed
    -E3D Hotend
    -Extruder hardware kit
    -Nema 17 motors

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Big shout out to Mark and the crew, Openbuilds parts were sent out today and should arrive next Mon. :) Misumi parts get shipped tomorrow and I still have to order my electronics.
     
  27. stargeezer

    stargeezer Veteran
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    Do you mind saying where you sourced your MK2B heat bed from?
     
  28. mgcrose

    mgcrose Well-Known
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    Exciting. Looking forward to seeing the build - I really want to pull the trigger on this design.

    One slightly off-topic question. In researching controllers, I see that usually the z-controllers are connected to two different stepper ports. Which means you end up with at most two ports for extruders. I am trying to integrate some expandability into the build - and really want to be able to try the diamond hotend from reprap.me. So wondering how you are wiring the z-motors, and if you have any thoughts on whether this (or any dual motor axis) build can support triple extruders with existing controller boards. Thanks.
     
  29. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I wire my z motors to the same driver on ramps 1.4. I have also wired each z motor to its own driver on ramps 1.4 but I am only using one extruder. I believe the Radds V1.5 controller does 3 axis with dual Z motors and 3 extruders. The Azteeg X3 Pro does 8 stepper drivers and up to 5 extruders. I have not used either myself..

    Sure, no problem. I got it here from makerfarm.
     
  30. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    What do you do when it is 3am and your hot end decides to jam on the last 2 layers of a 11hr perfect print?

    [​IMG]

    You say screw it! I am already up, make a fresh pot of coffee and grab the acetone and allen wrench. The good news is over laying it on my heatbed shows I did my cad right. :) yay for small wins. lol

    [​IMG]
     
    Mark Carew likes this.

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