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C-Beam cnc

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Kyo, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    Great looking build! Deciding between this build and buying an OX from Ooznest here in the UK.

    I run a UAV and rapid prototyping (software / hardware) business and at present we use a local business for our CNC needs, the problem is when we are working to tight deadlines and need to quickly make test parts our supplier is not always the quickest. We have 3D printers so can make test fit parts but would like to be able to cut alloy, plastics and carbon in house. This build looks ideal.

    The OX looks good as its a kit and it would save me a lot of time. But this looks like a better machine, I much prefer the use of lead screws.

    Did you build the first one with printed parts? If so were you able to use it to cut alloy and make the other parts?

    What would you recommend for an electrics setup? I have looked at the CNC xPro V2 Controller. I believe I could connect this to a Pi to add it to my network and control the machine via a web browser.
    (I have this setup with my 3d printers - octoprint)

    I also understand that I will need a CAM software to convert my CAD files ect to G-code - are there any good free versions out there. I use Sketchup and then slic3r at the moment.

    Thanks for your time
     
  2. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    I have done some forum reading and have found out about the addon for sketchup so thats one less question. Also used your BOM to calculate costs and it seems to be just a little more expensive than an OX but I believe will yield better results.

    Now need to find out about the printed parts and work on scaling it up a bit.
     
    GrayUK likes this.
  3. JAPartridge

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    Just as an FYI, Autodesk Fusion360 is free for hobbyists, beginners, and small businesses. ;)
     
  4. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @beardyblair Thanks, I think a cnc of your own would be a perfect fit for the work you do. I mostly use the 3d printed parts for mock up and test fitting. If one was to print a set with the right amount of infill and material, I believe you could go down the upgrade path of printed plates > wood plates > metal plates. Having the cnc do it's own upgrades is definitely a option but does require more rebuilds vs jumping in with the aluminum plate set from the start.

    Sketchup - SketchUcam is a solid option. Especially with you already being familiar with Sketchup.
    Autodesk Fusion 360 is another all in one cad / cam solution very powerful but with a steep learning curve.
    You also have a number of stand alone cad and stand alone cam options from open source and free to paid. I highly recommend trying out all the demos and go with what works best for your projects and work flow.

    I have ran a number of Controllers from the X-pro to Uno's and dedicated control boards like the phoenix board in my bom. Currently I have a Raspberry Pi 2 with Protoneer hat ruining my plate maker and this works well.

    If you don't mind waiting a few weeks in tell my new boards come in the post. I will have my grbl boards ready here soon. Unlike a lot of the options on the market. I focused on the Gecko G540 and upgrade-ability. It is pin to pin compatible with Mach 3/4 and linuxcnc and allows for a drop in swap with the ess / mesa if you ever decide to go down that path. With no need to re wire your machine. Connects to your control computer via usb. You can control it with anything from a pi zero / pi 3 to a full computer or laptop. I have been testing all the functions and doing some bench runs. It is looking good. The only thing left un tested would be the vfd connections as I do not have a vfd / spindle to test with ( any one want to donate? ;))

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  5. JAPartridge

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    Now I find out you're developing your own controller! Well crap, I may just have to build a second machine.... :D
     
  6. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Nothing wrong with multiple builds :D :thumbsup:
     
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  7. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    Thanks for taking the time to reply. What would be the cost of your board and what would I need to buy on top of the board to get it to all work? I have asked for quotes for the plates so will hopefuly have them next week. Now to work out the dimentions for a larger build :)
     
  8. JAPartridge

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    LOL, that's kinda what I was thinking... now if I can figure out sketchup, and get some experience building, I'll be all set with just 2...or maybe 3, and a 3d printer... or a deltabot, or.... :D :D :D
     
  9. JAPartridge

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    I never said it was easy! :D I'm completely new to CAD/CAM, and I'm having a heck of a time! need to spend a few quality evenings watching both the F360 and Sketchup vids to get the hang of how to do much of anything. *sigh* I guess an older dog will have to learn some new tricks. :banghead:
     
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @JAPartridge I find the videos really helpful I am always attending the Class of youtube. For Fusion 360 I really like professor John from nyccnc lol. @David the swarfer has good videos on Sketchup and Sketchucam as well..

    @beardyblair No problem, Happy to reply. I have not nailed down prices as of yet. So I will pm you some preliminary numbers for your review. You would need the following.
    -My grbl board. (this is what runs grbl)
    -Gecko g540 (this is a 4-axis driver)
    -Power supply (OB 24v unit has been working good in my tests, the g540 can use higher. )
    -E-stop switch
    -Ribbon Cable

    That is all you need to get up and moving, However you may want to add the following extras depending on what you would like.
    -NO Limit switches ( For homing the machine )
    -Touch off plate (helps with setting zero)
    -Relays (for turning on/off router ect. Two outputs are available for spindle and coolant )
    -Electronics enclosure
    -Connectors and terminal blocks to keep wiring clean and organized.
    -Momentary switches for Start / Hold / Reset
     
  11. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    Is this the beastie you are referring to?
    G540 4-Axis Motor Control Geckodrive

    So the Gecko board is the drivers for the motors and also accepts the inputs from limit switches for homing?
    Your board is the interface that converts the gcode?
    A pi3 connects to this to provide a GUI?
    Where do the momentary switches connect?

    Sorry for the questions, is there a thread or diagram somewhere I can see to make it all clear. If not I am sure I can figure it out.
    VERY interested in your board and this approach.
     
  12. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Yes that is the right gecko driver.

    Yeah that sounds right. The gecko g540 is a all in one 4 axis solution, four drivers and built in break out board. My grbl board makes full use of the gecko's built in breakout board for connecting limit switches coolant and spindle outputs ect. Correct my board runs grbl and you can use any linux gui on the pi for your control software. I like both bcnc and universal g-code sender; Goko is another new one but I have not had a change to try it yet. The momentary switches are for grbl's extra button inputs reset/abort feed/hold and start/resume. my board has the required screw terminals for hooking them up.

    I will have a full post on my website with diagrams and short videos of the demo runs I have been doing here in a day or two. as soon as it is up I will make sure to cross post it here as well.
     
  13. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    I look forward to your videos, hopefully they will answer my questions.

    UPDATE: I have ordered all the fixings from a variety of suppliers and have sourced a UK supplier of the g540, £370 though. May shop around.
    I now need to decide on using a spindle or a router and need to find out about Z height sensors. Getting there.

    Think I may start a build log to document this????
     
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  14. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Here is the first demo video, I was messing around with Spirograph's and decided to film a short clip.



    Awesome, The fun really begins once parts start arriving :thumbsup: That is a bit pricey. I picked mine up on amazon for $285 + 13$ for postage going through one of the Gecko dealers.
    Here is the "Link" It also came with the db9 motor connectors. Gecko Also sales directly on amazon for $299 Here "Link" Those are both US based but might work out cheaper for you even after postage.

    Go for it ! I encourage every one to start a build log and share their builds. I know I am always inspired by reading the build logs everyone post.
     
    Mark Carew and Moag like this.
  15. Johnny Yang

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    Hi Kyo,

    I'm planning to build this, but thinking of replacing the wheels and lead screws with 12mm linear rail guides and 1204 ballscrews, because I think it's simpler to install. But since this is my 1st try so I'm not sure which one is better, what do you think? Thanks for the help..
     
    #165 Johnny Yang, Oct 17, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2016
  16. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Hello @Johnny Yang
    The main problem with going to 1204 ball-screws is the ball nut will not fit inside of the C-beam like a lead screw does on the Sphinx design. If interested in running ball-screws checkout the Evil Ox build. He is mounting the screws on the outside of the plate and it should give you some ideas to build from.
     
  17. yannyann

    yannyann New
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    Hi Kyo,

    What is the GT3 loop belt length?
    In the BOM, the link goes to the coupling page.
    Thanks and good job!
     
  18. Ronald van Arkel

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    Hello @yannyann,

    This machine doesn't use a belt, it's based on Acme screws.
     
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  19. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Correct this is a lead screw based machine. :thumbsup: I did use belt reduction on the z-axis motor. However those parts are not currently available.

    NEW BUILDERS B.O.M UPDATE (z-axis direct mounting)
    -------------------------------------------------------
    -(x1) 8mm to 1/4 coupling OB Link
    -(x2) M5x55 Screws OB Link
    -(x2) 40mm Spacers OB Link

    This replaces the GT3 belt and pulleys and reduction plate in the original b.o.m... Allowing direct z-axis motor mounting as are the OB plate maker and linear rail kits. Please see attached photo for reference.

    dsc03854.jpg

    (side note for Mark: The upload image / attachment icon when posting is not showing up, just a blank space where a button icon should be between post reply and more options )
     
  20. Ronald van Arkel

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    Hello @yannyann, I should apologize for what I wrote above as there was indeed that single belt; I believe that the parts can still be ordered if you contact the people at the OpenBuilds partstore. And if thy do, just drill out the reduction plate with a 16mm drill and flip in another bearing.

    @Kyo, I'm using 35mm spacers for my current designs, using a bearing between flex-coupling and C-beam end mount, and, is that just me or is the end mount turned around on the picture above (or just an early prototype?)?
     
  21. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Not sure, looks the same as mine. I was on a public terminal this morning and quickly grabbed the image from the parts store listing vs uploading my own.
     
  22. yannyann

    yannyann New
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    ok, thanks!
     
  23. Johnny Yang

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    Thanks for the input @Kyo
    I think I'll go with your design, what's your max. cutting area with this build size?
    Thanks..
     
  24. Justin Christensen

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    Kyo,
    Thank you so much for this build and such great tutorials. I currently own a c-beam machine and I am going to give it the upgrade. I am currently trying to figure out exactly what parts I need to order. Hopefully I can do it all in one order and not forget anything. This will be a great upgrade. Can't wait to build it.
    My question for you is about the aluminum tooling plate. What are the dimensions to make it fit good and snug? I noticed you said it was Mic 6 aluminum 0.5" thick, but how wide and long do I need?
    Thanks again
     
  25. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks :D Happy to share. I always find it exciting to see how the community runs with and modifies designs. It always leads to improvements. I look forward to seeing your build..

    I got lucky when I found the Mic-6 Plate, It Measured 19.563" × 16.438" ( give or take a bit ) The fit gave me just enough wiggle room side to side and front to back to work and drop right in. For best fit measure interior space when frame is built. This will accommodate any variance from the plans during build. You can always cut to fit, but adding it back on is another story. While it added a lot of heft to the machine in the form of weight. It was expensive and could easily be replaced with a 0.5" piece of mdf or similar.
     
  26. Justin Christensen

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    I'm getting ready to cut out all my plates for this build using my c-beam machine. I am doing a test cut out of wood to make sure everything looks good before I waist a sheet of aluminum.
    As I was getting it all setup I noticed that my bed is not level. I would start in one corner and jog to the other side etc, and found that it's not level. Anybody have a good way to get the bed good and level? That's been my biggest struggle with this machine. That's why I am looking forward to the upgrade. Thanks in advance
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Usually you would fit a reasonably sized square end router bit, and set it to take off
    a mm or two more than the error, across the whole of the bed.
    This is something you should do anyway. Your bed may be level in one respect, but it has to be square to the router/spindle.
    This can be quite a regular thing if there is a damp atmosphere generally. Warping and expansion can
    sometimes be a problem.
    Gray
     
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  28. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    That is what I do every few jobs. surface the mdf and create a new flat surface. With all the mist coolant ( spray bottle ) and screws for my hold downs I am always messing up my plate maker mdf surface.
     
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  29. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I had a 1mm crown in my torsion box table top I built so to level everything, I did as Gray said and put a 3/4 inch cutter on and set it to a 2 mm depth to level the bed after I squared the router up vertically.
     
  30. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    does anyone have the plates as a PDF with all sizes marked?
     

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