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C-Beam cnc

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Kyo, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    I do not have any fully dimensioned pdf's. However I do have some 1:1 pdf drawings of the plates. Exported for A4 paper.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    @Kyo I saw your wiring diagram and videos on the first page of this post, but I'm still not clear on what to do and how these things work. Are you able to post something a bit more explanatory? I'm very new to electronics...

    Thanks
     
  3. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Sure, Can you give me a run down on the electronics you are using.

    -Drivers
    -Power Supply
    -Controller
    -Ect.

    Then I can give a more detailed run down on wiring for your application..
     
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  4. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    I'm using four of the DQ542MA drivers, four NEMA 24 stepper motors, and a 24V power supply, all from the OpenBuilds parts store. I have the C-beam XL bundle as well.

    I have not gotten the board, shield, or software, but I was thinking about an Arduino and whatever would go with that. I'm in Southern California, US, so hopefully things that don't have to be shipped from too far. ;)
     
  5. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Kyo did a great job of showing how to hook the Arduino to the DQ542MA on the first page of this thread. C-Beam cnc It is what I followed when I upgraded to the DQ542MA drivers.
     
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  6. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    Plates sourced and driver board donated! Kyo, once I find a reasonably priced Gheko I will be in touch. Now to figure out scaling this bad boy up!
     
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  7. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    I did see that, but I'm not sure how to proceed since there were only two schematics for wiring, but the machine will use four motors. Also, I'm not sure what the purpose of the screw shield https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-YoYo...76507273&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+screw+shield that you posted about. Is this instead of the Protoneer Pi Hat?
     
  8. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @beardyblair Awesome :thumbsup: I look forward to seeing your larger build.. :D

    @Aeneas
    Excellent combo of parts they will work great for your build...

    The wiring example is for a single axis. Each axis will be wired the same way when using a uno with each pair of wires going to the respective Uno pins. Like So.

    Z-axis ( pictured example )
    -pin 7
    -pin 4

    X-axis
    -pin 2
    -pin 5

    Y-axis
    -pin 3
    -pin 6

    If you use the Enable line pin 8 or the 5v line is dependent on your grbl settings both work.. Just repeat the wiring diagram for each driver / axis using the above pins. Here is the current pinout for grbl / uno.

    [​IMG]

    The Screw terminal is used to provide easy and secure connection to the Uno pins. Without it attaching wires to the Uno can be a pain.

    If you check out @Giarc Build Thread towards the bottom you can see how the Screw Shield would be used.

    On the Other Hand. The Protoneer Hat has the Uno (atmega328) built into the hat. With each pin brought out to screw terminals. However it does require a additional pcb for external drivers as it was designed originally to use Pololu style drivers.

    To use External drivers with either option you need the following..

    UNO Option
    ----------------------------
    - Arduino Uno "Link"
    - Screw Terminal "Link"

    Protoneer Option
    ----------------------------
    -Raspberry Pi 3 "Link"
    -Protoneer Hat "Link"
    -Protoneer Breakout "Link"

    The Protoneer option offers you a full control PC in the setup with the Pi. He also offers a freely downloaded OS with control software already installed. This is a Linux system and if you prefer windows or mac the Uno option offers more flexibility in that regard.
     
    #188 Kyo, Nov 2, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
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  9. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    Thank you for the detailed reply. It is very helpful, and I like the idea of a shield as it will help make the wiring much easier.

    Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how is the power supply hooked up to this type of setup?
     
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    No Problem, The Power for the Arduino comes in over the usb cable. The drivers are powered directly from the power supply.
     
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  11. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    Excellent, thanks
     
  12. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    90% of parts now here! Just waiting on plates making their final leg of the journey from London up to Scotland and the motors arriving from a UK supplier.

    I think I may have the wrong drivers however so will have to do more research I think. Using a protoneer hat with DRV8825 Pololu drivers to run 3A 245oz stepper motors.
    Looks like that may burn them so may need to look at other options.
     
  13. ChrisV

    ChrisV New
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    I've been wanting to jump in and do a cnc build for a couple of years now. I almost took the plunge when Mark did the original OX build and put together such a great detailed video. Well like all things, when someone comes up with a great idea it doesn't take long before it evolves into something even better. That's one of the things I've so admired about the talent on this site. Well I finally ordered a ton of parts on the Black Friday sale and decided to build KYO's Sphinx cnc largely due to the detailed video and manual he did...great work. I'm totally new to this and probably don't even know what I don't know, but I think you guys will keep me on the right path. Kyo, I planning to build your design but want to scale it up to 1000x1000mm. I'm a little concerned about lead screw whip with 8mm lead screws. I've read here that 1000mm is pretty much the limit for the 8mm screw, but I was thinking about installing the lead screws in tension instead of compression, but am not sure how to accomplish this. I've ordered the plate set from Chris Laidlaw as well. Looking to getting a bunch of parts and getting started.. By the way...kudos to the Openbuilds team for such a great site and store.... ChrisV
     
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  14. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Hello Chris,
    I look forward to seeing your build.. 1Mx1M will be a good size for a lot of projects. :thumbsup:

    To install the lead screws in tension flip the plates from left to right and right to left. This will place the bearing pocket on the outside of the C-beam instead of facing the center. When putting the lead screw in tension leave the screws longer ( they come slightly over length ). SMW3D has a good video "Here" on tensioning lead screws for the R7 design. The same technique can be used for the Sphinx. You can also use thrust bearings with the sphinx. Something like this Unit "Here" should fit the bearing pocket in the plates in place of the flanged bearings..
     
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  15. ChrisV

    ChrisV New
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    Thanks Kyo, now I just need some parts.
     
  16. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    I was trying to figure out the same prior to my build. I put some thought into it and can't see how there would be any difference in accuracy on a 1m build unless you are expecting the screw to bend under tension given the longer length? I have just tested this theory by bending the screws with the carriage at full length away from the motor. No noticeable movement, less than a thou on the DTI.
     
  17. bms85

    bms85 New
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    Hey Kylo, Parts are on their way minus the GT3 Closed Loop Timing Belt, GT3 40T Pulley, and the C-beam Belt Reduction Mount. All of which are no longer available on the OpenBuilds store. any chance you could cut and sell me all of the required plates? The .skp files don't seem to have any depth to them?
     
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  18. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    I am thinking of changing mine to use the pully reduction on the Z axis also, I need to reduce the overall height of my build to fit it in a smaller enclosure!

    I was thinking of using this: V-Slot Mounts : NEMA23 Motor Mounting Plate

    You could use that on top of a standard c-beam end to allow you to invert the motor and tension the belt.
     
  19. Darathy

    Darathy New
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    Would a GT2 belt be ok too instead of GT3 for Z reduction? i cant seem to find a 40tooth GT3 pulley and the belt. 20 tooth pulley seems to be avaliable but not the 40 tooth. cant find on ebay either :(

    And does anyone the design for Rduction plate so i can cut it myself since its not avaliable on OB store.
     
    #199 Darathy, Nov 28, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2016
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  20. bms85

    bms85 New
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    Nice, I'll keep that in mind. I haven't started digging into the details yet. Thanks for the link, I'll see if this one works as a replacement for the one no longer carried by Openbuilds.
     
    #200 bms85, Nov 30, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2016
  21. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Belt Reduction Plate
    Here is the sketchup file for the original Openbuilds Nema 23 belt reduction plate ( also found in my complete cad model ). This plate is currently not listed on the OB part store. I am not sure when the new plate will be available from the parts store.

    I currently recommend direct mounting of the Z-axis motor and when the new belt reduction plate is released it can be a upgrade. If you wanted to implement belt reduction directly you will need to tackle making the plate and sourcing the needed belts and pulleys.

    Belt reduction plate is 6mm thick and has a center to center spacing of 77mm ( with nema23 centered in slotted mounts ) with a 40t and 20t pulley you would need a 245mm GT3 loop belt or 214mm GT2 (according to the closed belt calculator please feel free to double check the math). The nearest match I could find is a 246mm GT3 6mm wide and 216mm GT2 6mm wide loop belt.. This should be fine as the center to center spacing allows the motor to be pulled or pushed in the mount off of center to tighten and take up slack on the belt..

    GT2
    Plate: Need to make your own.
    40T 8mm ID Pulley: Link
    20T 0.25" ID Pulley: Link
    GT2 6mm Loop Belt: Link

    GT3
    Plate: Need to make your own.
    40T 8mm ID Pulley: Link
    20T 0.25" ID Pulley: Link
    GT3 6mm Loop Belt: Link

    Also be sure to check out @Metalguru Belt Reduction Plate Mod Here..
     

    Attached Files:

  22. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Volunteer
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  23. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    NEMA 23 Reduction / Stand Off Plate
    Hey guys want to jump in here and let you know that the nema 23 "stand off plates" formally known as reduction plates are back up. We are working on a 1:1 pulley/belt combo that will allow for that nice mounting of the stepper tucked away to the back side C-Beam. This is useful for a lot of style Builds so its nice to have this option back and we are excited to see what can be made using them. The pulleys and belt will be up asap but in the meantime the plates are back. :)
    [​IMG]
    Hope this helps
    Mark
     
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  24. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Awesome :thumbsup: Thanks for the update..
     
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  25. Darathy

    Darathy New
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    my main reason for wanting belt reduction is i think my nema 23 wont be able to handle the weight of the 2.2kw spindle i bought ,wanted to see if belt reduction could solve it withought me going to high torque series nema 23 and then i'd have to change the controll board aswell.

    What problem is with the plate? does it bend the leadscrew making it bind?
     
  26. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    In testing with the 2:1 reduction it will lift a little more just not a a true 2:1 ratio There are many variables that contribute to these results, so we optied to keep it a simple 1:1 system.
    With the nema 23 direct the motor stalls at approximately 26lb (115N) and with the 2:1 reduction the motor stalls at approximately 32lb (142N)
    There is some room there to give it a try. It may also help a little with resolution as well for systems like the Z axis of the resin based printers.
     
  27. bms85

    bms85 New
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    Thanks, Picked one up!

    Thanks Kylo! I was having a lot of trouble sourcing the belt. Also, the depths I'm having the hardest time finding are the depths of the counter-sinks for each plate (for the bearings). Both the DXFs and the Sketchup files are flat.

    Just FYI if anyone needs a belt, there was a minimum order on the belts. I picked up a bunch if anyone needs them.
     
  28. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    bms85.
    I'll keep that in mind for the near future. :thumbsup:
    Gray
     
  29. Justin Christensen

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    I've noticed on eBay someone sells these plates and they have one that is 2 inches taller on the z axis. Does anybody know anything about this? Has anyone used that? I could see how you would get more room in the z, but would it be less precise?
     
  30. beardyblair

    beardyblair Well-Known
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    I have bought the taller plates from Chris and can confirm that they are of very high quality. As for accuracy, I think that it will be a very minimal drop in precision. Obviously, a taller plate will be a bigger lever and so more force will be placed on the wheels and thus more chance of movement. I have used these plates to make a taller printer and have scaled up the Sphinx design to be 1m x 1m, the flex shown on the DTI at various places during testing was minimal. I will retest once operational to give real world working figures.
     
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