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Fina

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Kyo, May 8, 2015.

  1. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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  2. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Figured I should stop cluttering the other build thread and get one going.. I will be posting my modified files. Once I confirm my changes from the original work as intended.
     
  3. M8ker

    M8ker Well-Known
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    looking forward to follow your build . i currently have a Makefarm 12" I3v and im looking to make an upgrade to a more rigid frame :thumbsup:
     
    Kyo likes this.
  4. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Started to build the extruder today, after receiving my ptfe linear from Colin for my e3d v6. So far so good I have to reprint the bolt cover as it was originally designed for a hobbed bolt facing the other way. As such is about 5mm to short to cover the bolt.

    I also had to run a 3mm drill bit through the filament guide holes. Tolerances were just a tad to tight to allow the 1.75mm filament a smooth transition from top to bottom. Sensor mount is working great so far everything is fitting as planned. I did mis order the bolts to mount the sensor mount ( to short ) so I used some way to long ones for now to mount it.

    [​IMG]

    Update:
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    I still have to clean up the wiring / routing.. Otherwise I am only a couple M3 bolts n nuts away from wrapping up the extruder and can move on to frame assembly.
     
    #4 Kyo, May 11, 2015
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
  5. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Got my openbuilds order in today :) realized I completely forgot to order most of my m3 hardware. :banghead: hopefully the few I need I can just grab at ace. If not another order will be inbound.

    Started assembly this afternoon.

    [​IMG]

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    ( how can I make my images click for full size? I apologize they are always so big ( at lest on my monitor ) )
     
  6. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Kyo, I don't mind the big pics but if you want to have them in thumbnails there is a setting when you upload the picture where you can make it big or thumbnail.
     
  7. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I usually upload to my website, then post the url here. So I only have to do one batch of photo uploads on my internet connection instead of two.

    I got my lead screws in the post today for both the X and Y axis, and so far everything seems to be going together just like I was hoping. :)

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  8. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Just finished up Fina's X-axis. went together without a hiccup..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Plans call this measurement to be 410.2mm, I am right at 410mm

    [​IMG]

    After I took these photos, I ended up removing the 2mm shim on the X-axis motor as it was not needed for my nema 17 after all.

    Also big shout out to Skarab and Carl; for there excellent Build Guides and Videos. they are making assembly a breeze.
     
    #8 Kyo, May 15, 2015
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  9. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    The Y-axis is complete. Going to be working on the main frame here the next few days.

    [​IMG]

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  10. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Main Frame is complete. :) I brought it in out of the workshop to grab a better photo..

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  11. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Excellent build Kyo :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  12. Danskinn

    Danskinn New
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    That looks so sweet! Is that green Peak Green from Inland? just asking 'cause it looks very similar.
    Could you post links to the guides you followed? I will be watching your build for sure. Thanks for sharing.
    Dan

    Edit: typed too soon :). http://reprap.org/wiki/Lautr3k_Build_Manual
    I believe is what I was after. Are the lead screws hard to get?
     
    #12 Danskinn, May 20, 2015
    Last edited: May 20, 2015
  13. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Thanks Tweakie, Just got my power supply in today. So come this weekend I will be working on electronic placements and wire routing..

    Danskinn--
    That is indeed Peak green from Inland. I ordered a number of abs and pla spools from them to test out. So far I have been having great luck with Inland filament. ( the sku number on the roll even matches some more costly name brand filament, so I suspect it is all made in the same factory. ) However I do notice filament dia. variations through out the spool. Not enough to cause issue but something to be mindful of when calibrating.

    I was hopping it would be a more Neon ( bright ) green. However I still like the color. I also notice the abs does not smell as bad as my other brand abs rolls, but also does not make as good a abs slurry. Not sure why..

    Yep that is the build guide I followed. I also watched Carl's videos. Very helpful and well laid out.

    The lead screws are a common off the self item that come in delivered at the same price as the old TL units. However, I did completely change the lead screw dimension's ( longer and different machining on each end then originally called for with a Lautr3k build ) and redesign the printed parts to allow everything to work together with the new screws/nuts and larger bearings.

    I will be posting a updated B.O.M with part numbers and url's as well as the .skp and .stl for the new parts as soon as my build has been tested. I would hate for someone else to take the $ plunge for parts and start printing pieces, just for me to find out I had something wrong and needed to update/change a part.
     
  14. Danskinn

    Danskinn New
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    Kyo,
    What do you think about using the openbuilds lead screws for each axis or just X and Y? http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw/ My guess is that the speed might be affected since they don't look as beveled (steep pitch?) as the ones you purchased.
    What type and density of the infill for the printed parts?
    Thank you, Dan
     
    #14 Danskinn, May 21, 2015
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  15. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    All my parts are printed at 40% infill hexagon pattern. With the exception of my extruder and gear parts; They are 70% hexagon infill ( pretty much solid )

    I have another project using the OB lead screws. http://openbuilds.com/builds/adamantine.1857/ I will get back to that build later this year. After Fina I want to build a OX so Fina may have to go to fund that build as I already have other printers and a couple that need finished. We shall see. I also believe Robert Hummel is building a Lautr3k inspired build using the OB screws.

    If one wanted to use the OB screws on this build; None of the parts would need to be changed out. Same bearings couplers ect. no machining of the screws required just cut to lenght. You would only need to update the X and Y plate for the OB nut. I can draw some up if someone wanted to give it a go.
     
  16. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I was wondering if anyone would be so kind as to help me get marlin all setup to flash to my ramps/arduino setup. While I can flash Marlin to the arduino I am at a bit of a loss when it comes to editing the files and proper settings to work with my custom printer. ( I am not a software guy lol )

    I would like to run the newest Marlin ( Marlin 1.0.2 I believe )

    Specs for most of my components. If I left anything out that is needed to properly configure marlin prior to flashing the board just let me know.

    --Electronics--
    Arduino 2560
    Ramps 1.4
    A4988 Stepper Drivers
    Reprap Smart Full Graphics LCD Controller

    --Z Axis--
    Dual Leadscrew Driven
    -10mm Dia 2mm Pitch
    Dual Nema 17 40mm Tall Motors
    -64oz 17HS16-2004S
    -Current Per Phase: 2A
    -Step Angle: 1.8°

    --X Axis--
    Leadscrew Driven
    -12mm Dia 6 Start 18mm Lead ( so I assume a 3mm pitch? start X pitch = lead )
    Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
    -76oz KL17H248-15-4A
    -Current Per Phase: 1.5A
    -Step Angle: 1.8°

    --Y Axis--
    Leadscrew Driven
    -12mm Dia 6 Start 18mm Lead ( so I assume a 3mm pitch? start X pitch = lead )
    Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
    -76oz KL17H248-15-4A
    -Current Per Phase: 1.5A
    -Step Angle: 1.8°

    --Extuder--
    Wades Style Setup
    Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
    -76oz KL17H248-15-4A
    -Current Per Phase: 1.5A
    -Step Angle: 1.8°
    Herringbone Gears
    -5.1 ( I could be wrong on the ratio, I have a lot of gear sets )
    E3D-V6 Hotend 1.75mm Direct
    -100K Semitec NTC thermistor

    --Heatbed--
    12"x12" Makerfarm PCB Heatbed
    -NTC 3950 100K Thermistor
    -Relay

    --Endstops / Sensors--
    Mechanical end-stops home switches on each axis
    Capacitive Proximity Sensor ( for auto bed leveling )
    -LJC18A3-H-Z/BY
     
  17. Patrick Walls

    Patrick Walls Well-Known
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    Hello,
    Where did you get the printed parts from? I am looking to buy a set and try and build a printer.
    Thanks
    Pat
     
  18. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Hello Pat,
    I Printed all the parts needed for my build. Sending you a PM I would not mind helping you out with a part set.
     
  19. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Forgot to update while I was here, I have all 3 axis moving smooth and running. I found a place to mount my power supply ( still have to print the brackets ). I also designed a 1/2" plate to go between the Y-axis printed plate and the pcb heatbed. Not sure how I am going to make that yet, should be cnc routed tho I may just print a pattern and use my scroll saw.

    I am working slowly on the firmware I am learning as I go but I am getting there. I have been sitting down and watching some online arduino videos which are helping.
    There are a number of helpful ramps/marlin tutorials. However, not only do I like knowing what to do. But Why I am doing it. I am also updating the marlin lcd splash screen to better match the build.

    Almost to my favorite part of any build. Wiring!! Yes I know, I am weird! I Like Wiring :)
     
  20. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I was printing up a parts kit for Pat and decided to go ahead and make a 2nd kit in case someone else would like to build a Lautr3k / Fina as there first printer..

    So if you wanted to purchase a printed parts kit for this printer, just send me a PM. No extruder parts in this kit ( my design is untested) , but if you need them just let me know in your pm.



    Now that I got the requested printed parts kit complete I can get back to my build, expect updates next week. :)
     
  21. Patrick Walls

    Patrick Walls Well-Known
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    Kyo,
    Looks really good. Don't know if you knew or not but DiggerJ is printing me a set too, I am going to have a tough choice of which one to build first. By the way that one looks excellent too. They both look really good. Maybe I will build one for me and one for my son. Get him started early.
     
  22. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Nice, his Pink Panther build is sweet, both builds should suit you excellently. Never to early to get them interested in learning / making things. The 2nd printer I made and first I printed was to get family members interested in 3d printers now they are learning cad and making there own parts..

    Once you make one 3d printer it becomes addicting, lol I am only 90% done with fina and I am already in the planing stages of my larger Delta 6 Inspired build. But next a cnc router, my adamantine build needs parts cut.
     
  23. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    New Extruder Design, Printed in ABS and ready to go. There turned out to be a number of problems with my first design. This new one is smaller / lighter and easier to print. The main change was to allow the ptfe tube to come all the way up to the hobbed bolt. I have to order some more ptfe tubing and gt2 belt and 20 tooth pulley before I can assemble it. Gear ratio will be 5.2:1

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Fina is alive ! Marlin has been configured and upload to the ramps board, we now have movement... Next I need to mount my heat bed and print some cases / mounts for the electronics and power supply.

    "video deleted, I made a better one below"
     
    #24 Kyo, Jun 19, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015
  25. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    This morning, I relocated the end stops and changed the setting in marlin to allow the print bed to be all the way forward when at "Home" as that is my preference. While I was at it I also updated the splash image for marlin as the one that came with it was giving me a white bar across the info text. The spash screen also flashes every time I press the button on the rotary encoder even after the main boot. Any one know what setting to change to stop that?

    Here is a better video showing my progress. Will be getting the heat bed mounted on my next day off.

     
  26. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    I just finished up finalizing my Marlin configuration for Fina. I wanted to change the logo on the splash screen as the original logo had display issues. However I still wanted to give credit to the Marlin guys. While I was at it I also wanted to document for myself and for anyone in the future who may have this printer who built it / when it was built and where. I really like what I was able to come up with.

    [​IMG]

    The mount I used to secure the Reprap full graphic lcd to my 20x20 printer frame is a modified version of this mount here on thingiverse not my best print but seems to work great.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Thanks to the folks over at Igus. I am able to test out a new product on my next 3D Printer build ( another Lautr3k style printer like Fina ) The main upgrade for build two will be to scrap all the wheels / bearings / spacers / shims / ect. for the Y axis. Not due to bad design but to cut back on part count and help ease assembly.

    So I present you with Igus linear Rail's for the Y-axis with fully adjustable miniature carriages.

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    Here is a photo showing the basic idea for that..

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    So many project ideas so little time. I better get back to work :)
     
  27. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Started the Process of mounting my heat bed, Due to the design of the extruder and hot end I am needing to use a 1/2" piece of plywood. A CNC routed aluminum 1/2" plate would have been sweet but not something I can make right now.

    Tomorrow I will run into town and pick up some springs bolts and nuts along with a piece of glass and cork so I can mount it all up..

    Laid out with the newest cnc Laser engraving techniques known to man ( lol ) ready to drill.

    [​IMG]

    Drilled and test fit.

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    Mock up of heat bed..

    [​IMG]
     
  28. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    @Kyo, where do you get cork board? I've been wanting to use some too but couldn't find any thin ones.
     
  29. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Wallmart of all places, In the kitchen or sometimes the office section. They have a few rolls to chose from with varying thickness from 1/20 1/16 1/8 and 1/4. Some have a peel and stick backing to. About $10 for a 2ft x 4ft roll..
     
    #29 Kyo, Jun 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2015
    JustinTime likes this.
  30. Kyo

    Kyo Master
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    Sorry for the slow updates everyone, I hope you all had a great 4th !! I was on high alert all day. My property is mostly dry brush and the neighbors usually go crazy with aerial fireworks, Upside: Excellent free show. Downside: They ignore most common sense safety.

    I also got side tracked with a couple of delta ideas we are working on..
    Makerslide Delta-six, Having no out board wheels will allow us to enclose it. :)
    [​IMG]

    And a large format Aluminum framed Delta printer.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now back to the main event, the Fina build. I did not get as much done up to now as I would have liked.. How ever some progress has been made.
    Received my M3 M4 M5 bolts nuts and lock nuts order the other day. I got tired of running to town paying .75-$1 a bolt so I ordered a pretty good assortment that should last me a few builds for $35.
    [​IMG]

    I promptly began to mount the heat bed and start testing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Overall, I am not happy with the outcome! the heat bed is mounted way to high in order to allow the hotend to reach. ( a bit over a 1/2 of springs on top of the 1/2 plywood ) But the new extruder design should fix that. My original design is to high up. I am still waiting on the 20 tooth pulley and 188mm gt2 belt to arrive to assemble the new one. And the wood heat bed mount has already warped and twisted since I cut it out. sighh. Thinking it may just be best to go 3/8" aluminum ( Gerald sent you a pm ) This is what I am considering on that front.

    [​IMG]
     

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