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Fina

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Kyo, May 8, 2015.

  1. Mike Andrews

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    Actually, I'd like to know what the pitch and diameter of the threaded rod you used. I need to purchase the gear and I'm interested in why you chose what you did. :)
     
  2. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    No Problem, I went pretty basic for Z axis just followed the b.o.m called out in the Lautr3k thread.
    - 10mm dia. 1 start 2mm pitch

    They were easy to find and cheap and have a excellent track record in the mendelmax community. So I did not put much thought in to these.

    For the X and Y axis I had to change things up from the original design due to availability and cost. The Lautr3k called for 12mm dia. 10 start 25mm lead 2.5mm pitch lead screws. The company that provided them went out of business. ( Trinity Labs ) and the manufacture ( PCB Linear ) will not supply to the general hobbyist only oem's.

    I did find other manufactures who make the exact spec lead screw Thompson Part# SRA10-12X2.5M and Igus Part# PTGSG-12x25-R-ES But cost then became a issue not to mention they would still need the ends machined.

    In the end I settled on a close match that offset lower starts with a lower lead from Misumi and had them machine each lead screw to my specs.
    -12mm dia. 6 starts 18mm lead 3mm pitch ( 12mm dia. 6 starts 36mm lead 6mm pitch was also a option from Misumi )

    All said and done my lead screws with nuts and machining delivered cost less then the original Trinity Labs unit's. I paid roughly $90 each delivered and the TL units were $100 each originally.
    I wanted to stay high lead for overall speed. Having a higher start ( more threads running down the length of the screw ) allows us to use a motor with less torque. I remained with 12mm dia. to avoid any issues with having a smaller dia lead screw over such a length. However several have used the 8mm lead screws with great success at a good cost savings, if I were to order lead screws again I would go probably go that route.
     
  3. Mike Andrews

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    Awesome, thanks.
     
  4. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Yes, I am still here and still working on my 3d printer Fina. Being summer, Time tends to get away. In between now and my last update I was asked by the local school dean to come in and fix there 3d printer and teach / run a 3d printer program. Turns out they bought a printer a few years ago started to assemble then stopped and never did anything with it. Not sure if I will take them up on the offer yet I have never taught anything in my life lol I have to learn more before making a decision..

    I am starting to finalize the mounting of all accessories and figure out final wire routing. Here are some photos of the finished mount for the 12v mean well style power supply. You can find the files on my thingiverse page Here.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Here is my very first print using a "rough" setup to print on. I am very pleased. Print is a 20mmx20mmx20mm Calibration cube printed at 3 bottom top and perimeter layers with a 20% infill and 0.2 layer height.

    As you can see I am getting a little bit of over extrusion, but that is to be expected I did Zero calibrations to the printer or extruder before doing this print. I wanted a "base" to work from first. Video to come soon I am editing it to upload right now. In the video you will notice my Y-axis making some very odd noises I am not sure what is causing them and as such that will be the next problem I take on. If you have any ideas Please let me know !

    For now here are a few photos to wet your whistle while you wait for the video..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Gotta love the first print after a long build! :)
    Y-Axis noise has since been corrected. Easy fix, The Y-axis motor was misaligned and the motor driver voltage output was set way to low. Readjusted both and no more noise.
     
    #36 Kyo, Aug 30, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015
  7. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Getting around to the y-axis upgrade I briefly talked about on the first page. Here is a short overview of the new upgrade assembly..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
  8. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thinking about letting Fina go to a new home. Will need heat bed mount / mounted. Glass build plate and wiring tidied up to be finished. Just your basic reprap tinkering. lol :) I have let it sit and take up space to long. Will not come with the above linear rail upgrade or power supply I still need to use those parts in a review.

    Would love to keep it, However I have to many projects and not enough space. I will be starting my C-beam machine assembly soon and want to focus my 3d printer time on making Adamantin as good as possible, letting this printer go will help me both with $ and space in doing so.

    I want to say I have over $1,200 into it with the lead screws , heat bed, e3d v6, full graphic lcd and other parts, However I know you never get back what you put into projects like this. So shoot me a PM with your best offer. I will take paypal and can disassemble to save shipping. I also have no problem shipping world wide. But please keep shipping in mind when making a offer.
     
    #38 Kyo, Jan 11, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2016
  9. Makerparts

    Makerparts Well-Known
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    Very Clean Y Axis. how smooth are the IGUS rails?
     
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thank you! It came together really well. I am very pleased with the IGUS linear rails. I am not sure if they are available on their website as of yet, but the miniature carriages I am testing are fully adjustable. Allowing you to really dial things into alignment. They ride very smooth.
     
  11. Makerparts

    Makerparts Well-Known
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    Can you share the part numbers for the igus parts
     
  12. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Sure thing. My order sheet has the miniature carriages listed as part number. TWE-04-15 the linear rail is their standard T-profile rail. It looks like it is indeed now listed on their main .com (was originally only on the German site) they also offer a smaller TWE-04-12 ( a lot of the kossel delta guys use this one) but that one is still only showing up on the .de webpage.
     

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