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I want input on a build

Discussion in '3D printers' started by DarkAlchemist, Sep 27, 2015.

  1. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    Do I just post in a new thread or post a build or what? I need some input as it is just done in Solidworks and while I wait for some parts to come in I would like input about potential issues etc...
     
  2. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Either or. Many have posted some snapshots for feedback prior to creating a build thread. It's okay.
     
  3. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    Thanks Joe because a build thread, to me, means it is ready to be built and subsequent revisions can, and probably will, happen. This is just a concept and I do have a BOM for it too.
     
  4. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    First thing you will notice is 1 motor for Z and 1 rod to move the build plate up and down. With 4 plates having 3 wheels each I think there should be no issues but input please.

    Second thing about this printer is less need of printed parts and more off the shelf (raises costs but better strength) Openbuild's aluminum parts. Printed parts is two spacers to hold the GT2 belt to the extruder plate and the Bowden extruder itself.

    Third thing is it only requires 6 cuts then done. I wanted no cuts but can't be helped.

    The extruder is made for a J-Head (what I have on my boat weight I3 rework)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is the reduced parts count version total price - $511.38 plus s&h the full parts count version is $564.18 Plus s&h
     
  5. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    I'd add an opposing stepper and screw to the Z. I'm not a printer guy(yet), but I'm inclined to believe the opposite side will sag and/or lag behind. Do you have any examples of this in use or are you traveling the unbeaten path? Did you borrow anything for this design from another build? You could probably use just another screw with a timing belt and pulley, but if you using a 4axis driver another stepper would be doable.
    I'm not sure the corners are in their optimal orientation. I haven't sat and studied it as long as you probably have and maybe you just haven't updated the model.
    For instance, the bottom resting on the fastener heads doesn't sit right with me Personally. I would try to get the side of the cast corners and the bottom four extrusions resting flush on a nice flat surface. You may even want to try to get the upright bottom ends on that surface too.
    100 ways to build a box! :D
    Overall, good model work.

    Joe
     
  6. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    So, the build threads can be used anyway you'd like.
    Some finish a design and build behind the scenes on their own then publish. This saves a lot of time for the builder because they don't have to maintain a blog as they run the gambit involved with a custom machine. Others use the build section just as that, as a blog post that starts with a concept and ends with a functional derivative of the concept. Sometimes with a lot of valuable chat in between.

    TIP: When you start a build thread you have the option to publish it later. Yes, you can work on it without others being able to see it and then post it whenever you feel comfortable.

    I'd recommend you start one and publish it because your asking for a lot of feedback and questions that are relevant to your final design.

    This provides more benefit to you and the community in the long run by;
    • Allowing someone following your build to become a part of it by contributing ideas.
    • You getting more feedback to your questions as opposed to random multiposts around the forum.
    • All of the answers to your previously asked questions are in the same place for you.
    • Keeping everyone in the mix. Others who contribute or ask questions about your build get notifications of new comments
    • Later on it allows people that follow in your builds footsteps to read through the evolution of your design and your line of thought that led to it. This helps answer a lot of the same questions you had to ask.
    • It adds one more build that is more than a few photos with a few thumbs up to our valuable build section.

    A great example to all of these can be seen with hytechs f117 build. We have all of the above and then some to make it one of the many gems here at openbuilds and to future builders. It was and still is one of the many router builds that has inspired me. Personally, I used to comb the build section on a day to day basis when I decided to start a router. A lot of the encountered discussion was quite valuable to my assimilation into the DIY CNC world and much of it informed my decision to not build an OX, but to freestyle it.

    I plan on publishing a build later this year. The way I plan on publishing it is to do it in sections. I will not be using the machine in cold weather which means I'll have more time to tend to a detailed build post and any questions or feedback from the community. Soon, I'll be uploading the build in sections and responding to any posts I can from time to time. My reasoning for all of this is time. Since it is built in an unheated garage, I have limited time to finalize the mechanics to get back into wood before Jack frost is knocking. Others may not post very detailed builds because of time.

    In conclusion, whether you decide to post a blog following all of your thoughts or just a few pictures of a final machine is up to you.
    Long build posts can take quite a bite out of our day to update and maintain, yet they often provide fruitful to everyone involved and then some. Since the clock is on no one's side, it doesn't go unnoticed when you've spent an hour or two on a post or a build for the benefit of random strangers. You've given them some of your time is what really counts. Pun. ;D

    Joe

    Yet to proof read.
    Mods feel free to edit.
     
  7. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    I have nothing to go on but the lag is my worry but if the wheel are sturdy enough there shouldn't be play so one side is enough and if not I am not sure how to attach the other side because I refuse to do two motors after the hell I went through on this i3 rework.

    The bottom pieces all have the corner pieces that the flush pieces rest on. It lifts the printer up slightly and I do plan on adding some rubber bumper feet too so the screw heads will not touch the surface of the table (helps with sliding too). I would add some feet regardless if those 4 bottom plates are there are not. The more expensive version has those corner pieces and those plates all over each corner.

    My worry is wobble so I over did the more expensive one but still, regardless of which one, I worry mostly about wobble.
     
  8. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    After looking at the bottom I redid them back to how I originally had them since no cut edges will touch the surface of a table. Still will try rubber feet but even better would be a rubber mat the size of the printer but finding one that size, and only 1/8" (3mm) thick would be a bit hard.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    Just an idea. You could arrange the bottom corners so the end of the vertical 20 x 20 is exposed to the table surface and find some adjustable leveling feet to screw into the end holes.

    What timing belt and pulleys are you planning on using? gt2 gt3 pulley sizes etc.

    If the Z doesn't workout for you then maybe runningfarmers core v build z axis is a good back up plan.
    http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/core-v.1940/

    Joe
     
  10. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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    gt2 and I am using 16t gears (not sold here). The math for 16t is perfect and what I used on my boat weight.

    I like the idea of possibly using the feet but will be hard to find M5 for that.

    Yep, that is what I would attempt to do if Z lags but I still see no way to hook the acme rods. That is where I was stuck if it didn't work out. I prefer to leave one end free so as not to constrain it. If you notice the one side with the motor it is easy to attach the rod but on the other side, without a motor, how? Oh, I also have no idea where to find GT2 16t 8mm gears.
     
  11. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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  12. DarkAlchemist

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    The first one had it but the second is mostly imperial and M6 and M8. M8 is too big and M6 I think it is too and I am in the USA so I will probably have to find something close in imperial or keep looking. Not a big rush but they must be of rubber so they will shock absorb and reduce noise which plastic feet will not do very well.

    Thank you for the links. :)
     
  13. Flash22

    Flash22 Veteran
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  14. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Veteran
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