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MaxBox

Discussion in '3D printers' started by nidal, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    nidal published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    So, I've got my ACME nut blocks (http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-lead-acme-nut-block/) and I've been trying to get them to move smoothly on ACME rods (http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-lead-screw-acme/) for the past hour and a half (four pairs of nuts/rods).

    I did what advices I found here on forum suggested:
    - used a drill to work nuts out on their rods
    - bought graphite lubricant and sprayed nuts with it
    - then went on and sprayed rods the entire length (nuts are so tight they mostly clear lubricant off the rod)
    - used drill some more

    I managed to have one nut on one rod rotate smoothly (I can rotate rod with tips of my fingers, this is kind of resistance I've got on my current 3D printer when I rotate Z-axis rods) but others are still a pain in the butt to rotate.

    Anything else I could do to work out those threads in nut blocks?

    Also, what do you do to straighten ACME rods? These are 770 mm long and two of them have bends I can't really notice with a naked eye when looking down the rod. But when I rotate them in the drill they tend to wobble quite a bit.

    Thanks!
     
  3. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    This is what I did at the end to get ACME nut blocks moving:

    - There were 4 pieces, each about 25 cm in length, of ACME rods left after I cut them to required length
    - I chose one out of those 4 that required most force to turn nut block over it
    - Then I basically made thread tap out of it by cutting 3 notches at the tip with dremel metal cutting wheel
    - Threaded all nut blocks with this tap from both sides few times and it did remove very small amount of plastic out of them

    Now ACME rods can be turned using just fingertips. There still are some issues but it is waaaaay better than when I started.

    01.JPG 02.JPG 03.JPG
     
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  4. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    All axes connected to gantry plates. Those nut blocks were, well, nuts :)

    20.JPG
     
  5. raykholo

    raykholo Journeyman
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    Nice! I've been working on a 2' x 4' x 2' version of my Cohesion 3D printer frame design for a client, it looks somewhat similar frame wise except my bed is stationary and the vertical beams move.

    Is that a gMax in the background?
     
  6. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    @nidal, is the bed going to be supported on the side-rails?

    This is quite a big printer. I wonder how well the parts come out, structural integrity wise, at this size.
     
  7. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    Yes it's gMax, black and blue :) It's a good printer, I just haven't managed (yet) to get mine to print anything I could use in builds. even when I get parameters right, next or third print is off and I have to start calibrations and play with parameters all over again. Must be some mechanical issue.

    Anyhow, bed should roll on two 20x20 v-slots or maybe even on top of Y-frame 20x40's.

    I'm trying to make everything from off-the-shelf parts, so you could just order bunch of parts from openbuilds and/or some other store and put it all together without the need for 3D printed parts or custom made aluminium plates etc. However, it turns out that end price could be an issue with that kind of build.

    As for how the parts would come out on this big of a printer, well, the idea is to be able to print a number of smaller parts in one go. Put the plate on, start print, print finishes, take the plate with parts off, put the other plate on, take parts off of the first plate, and round and round you go.

    Also, you should be able to take the head off fairly easily and put some other on (i.e. DIY Dremel or not-so-diy spindle) and use it as a router for plywood, balsa and similar stuff.

    We'll see what happens with this one, but the way things are now (I have tried different setups, screws, belts even ball bearing screw for Y-axis), it seems that I will have to make some custom aluminium plates and brackets and use parts that you don't find in online stores that often.
     
  8. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    hi nidal, I'm thinking your 8 mm acme screws might be too small in diameter for the kind of span you seem to have there.
    I am currently building a 1.5 cubic meter 3d printer, at first I wanted to go with openbuilds' acme screws, but after some calculations I realized they won't cut it, not to mention they only come in 1 meter flavour.
    if you can upgrade to better acme or trapezoidal screws I think would be better for your machine in the long run, in terms of sagging.
    regarding the custom plates, this is an area that cannot be avoided, unfortunately not everything can be bought from openbuilds. if you cannot manufacture them locally, china is an excellent place to order them, from my experience.
    I used aliexpress to find a mechanical workshop, they did some pretty complicated bed brackets for me for only 40 bucks a pop, which is cheap, considering how said brackets (four of them in total) are supposed to hold a total weight of about 200 kgs (400 lbs.)
    hope that answers at least some of your questions.
    good luck with your project.
     
  9. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    Thanks Val!

    I was thinking about 12mm screws at some point but since I've already got 8mm ones I will give them a try first anyway. I've got wrong screws a month ago in my first shipment and tomorrow I should get the right ones. The ones on these images are with 2mm lead which is precise and requires lower torque to drive, but they are fairly slow. There's an 8mm ballscrew lying around somewhere and I'll probably drive Y axis with it just to try it out. Those things are expensive but sooooo smooth, studry and precise. Wow! :)

    It turns out I could build almost entire setup like this by finding parts in online shops and without having to source parts from china. This is good if someone wants to build one without having to spend time on alibaba.com asking for quotes and stuff (well, maybe you could find some, or most, of the parts on aliexpress, didn't search there).

    Downside of this build is that it is really not that easy to put it together and have everything under right angles and properly aligned, which becomes important when you work with 750mm extrusions. 3-4 degrees off the right angle and it is 3-4mm skew on the other side of the span. It is especially tricky to tighten and align wheels on Z axis carriages, the way they are assembled right now. Y axis is not that straightforward either, but it is a bit easier to put together. This needs re-engineering and I'm thinking of making custom plates which should be way easier to align and much faster to put everything together.

    CNC bot I ordered should be shipped in by the end of the month and I will be able to make some custom aluminium plates with it. This kind of beats the purpose of having no custom (or 3D printed) parts in it, but hey, if it is too hard to assemble and you can't build anything with it, then it doesn't matter that you can get all the parts for it from 2 or 3 online shops by the end of the week, right?
     

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  10. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    Nice build you got there!
    I tried to use as many openbuilds parts as I could, but I ended up designing and ordering some 'vitamins', custom parts that is, from aliexpress.
    Has to do with me trying to avoid having the platform mounted on horizontally positioned screws rather than vertical (shear forces, cantilever, structural engineering reasons).
    Besides, at the time, openbuilds didn't have an official nema23 motor mounting plate, so I had to design one, since I'm using only nema23's in my project.
    I hear you with the alignment, ran into the same problem trying to align all my 5 feet long, 4 z-axis, was a ***** but eventually I figured out the sequence of putting together the rails, and now all my four platform support brackets are mounted firmly onto the lead screws and ready to receive the actual platform.
    I think you gonna have to go custom at some point, you are in a better position than me to do so, since cnc's, even if they are subject to machining forces, do not require the speeds and accelerations usually found in 3d printers.
    Last but not least, precision cutting all rails is paramount. Had mines precision cut and then had the ends milled for a better accuracy. Indeed, one little mistake here and everything comes out skewed.
     
  11. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    Quick update:

    I have modified a frame a bit, but it is done now, all parts have arrived and are assembled:
    face.jpg

    anfas.jpg

    Extra v-slot beam is another version of X-axis drive using belt.

    Here is how maxbox frame compares to gMax:
    size.jpg

    That window above maxbox frame fell of the other day due to strong winds and did some small damage on the frame:
    damage-01.jpg

    Nothing terrible, few notches and misaligned bits. Landlord came just an hour ago and nailed that ******* back into it's frame, no more falling windows! I hope...

    Next is electronics, got all the drivers, PSU, and will use one of the boards I have laying around to test drive it.

    Speaking of boards and firmware, if anyone is interested in running Arduino sketches and libraries on controllers other than Atmel,
    I made a portable (as in "can be ported to other platforms") version of Arduino source code: Arduino-XC. I have few cosmetic things to finish up
    and I'll release it as FOSS in 3-4 weeks.

    I even made Indiegogo campaign for it, you can take a look at it here: http://igg.me/at/arduino-xc

    Relax! No need to pledge to any of the perks and give any money for it! :) By the time the campaign counts down to zero, I'll tie loose ends on Arduino-XC that need to be tied up and then I'll release the source on Github. You can have a look then and maybe even use it, if you're interested.

    That's it for now, back to the grind!
     
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  12. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    Nice work, and clean, I like it!

    Here's a quick shot at my baby. picture067.jpg
     
    nidal and Mark Carew like this.
  13. nidal

    nidal Well-Known
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    Can't fit into photo, eh? :D
    Nice!
     
  14. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    if you only knew...
    had to climb a box to get it all in the frame. a nice cube, 1500 mm (59").
    printing area: 1270 x 1100 x 1145 mm (50 x 43 x 45 inch).
     
  15. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    and a follow up with a quick shot at the silicone pad heater.
    etched foil, split into four areas, each area 2200 watt.
    220 volt compatible
    there's also 8 holes on the pad, for temperature probes.
    dimensions: 1275 mm x 1100 mm (5.19 x 43.7")
    haven't figured yet what controller to use.
     

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  16. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Which of the two is the correct one? (1275mm or 5.19")

    Also, are you going to use it as one piece or are you going to cut it into sections?
     
  17. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    Hello Justin,

    Both are correct, one is in metric (millimetres) and the other is in imperial.
    The pad is already split into four quadrants, each giving off 2200 watts worth of juice at 220 volt, for a total of 8800 watts.
    I don't intend to cut it, since the pad has been tailored to match my printing platform, 1332 x 1325 mm. Please see also the picture I posted above.
     
  18. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    Sorry Justin, I see now what you mean, it's 50.19 inches, not 5.19
     
  19. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    There is another thing I want to mention here, money related: I read many complains on the net regarding how hard it is to find large size silicone heating pads. I purchased this pad for 354 USD, which, considering its size of 50.19 x 43.7 inches, is not a bad price at all, shipping included.
    Aliexpress, China, lots of suppliers, shop around for the best price.
     
    #19 Val Cocora, Jun 27, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2015

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