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Mini-OX

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by James Gao, Mar 12, 2015.

  1. James Gao

    James Gao Well-Known
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    James Gao published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. illconn

    illconn Well-Known
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    I just recent cut some plates out of Acrylic(Extruded) and although they look great, they have a bit too much flex for me. I can move the gantry by hand(Y) hold one plate and move the other. I am going to re cut them with 3/8" cell cast this time and hopefully eliminate the flex or at least make it strong enough to cut some aluminum plates.

    Thank you for sharing the files, will keep an eye on this build :)
     
  3. James Gao

    James Gao Well-Known
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    Thanks for the feedback! I was afraid of the acrylic plates flexing as well, so I have an alternate design that doubles the plates to further reduce flex. See the updated build. However, keep in mind that the Y-gantry is moved in step with a pair of motors, so the variety of flex you're talking about shouldn't affect the build quality.
     
  4. illconn

    illconn Well-Known
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    Agreed, mid job I paused the calibration drawing and it did not flex much. let the drawing continue and flexed while moving and the lines were not straight but it did not throw the drawing off At the end.

    Not bad.
     
  5. illconn

    illconn Well-Known
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    Also, I am really liking the Spindle.... I have some of those NTM motors and spare GT gears laying around. May have to give the spindle a go :)
     
    tore micaelsen likes this.
  6. Florian Bauereisen

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    Hi,
    now that you have stiffend up the gantry sides your z-axis now is your weak spot.
    I would originally suggest to lower your z to the minimum you may think of ( pcp milling only needs a few mil), and change your z to something more stiff, but as you already did produce your side plates....
    In order to use what you have i would recomend to "raise" your bed as high as possible. Simply use stacks of mdf.
    Like that your milling motor will be close to the support rail and this hopefully enables you to mill your pcb´s with the desired acuracy ( less flex in z)

    Keep it up

    greets

    flo
     
  7. James Gao

    James Gao Well-Known
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    I'm actually taking apart one of my existing 3D printers to put all the parts into the CNC mill. I'd like to retain the ability to 3D print by attaching my print heads to the Z axis-- this is why I left my Z axis so tall. I think my first project will be to mill 1/4" aluminium plates as an upgrade for this system. Thanks for your recommendation!
     
  8. Bertrand Roy

    Bertrand Roy Well-Known
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    HI,
    Very nice build. I've been following it for a bit. I'm curious to know what software you are using. Are on on Windows or Mac? I just built my OX and am at a complete loss to know what to use. I am on Mac. I have a Smoothie Board to control the CNC.
    Just to tell you home much of a newb I am, I don't even know how to do the pen test...
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Bertrand
     
  9. BismarckDon

    BismarckDon Well-Known
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    Hi,
    I really like your machine design. I'm currently building a machine of my own. (Custom OX) I also have a MyDIYCNC Bigfoot machine that I started with. My plans are to disassemble this machine and upgrade it to either a smaller desktop CNC or a 3D printer. I was thinking of trying to mill gantry plates and connector plates from sheets of acrylic. Your spindle idea is awesome! Thanks for sharing.
     
  10. James Gao

    James Gao Well-Known
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    I'm on linux. I've carried over a bunch of knowledge from building and running 3D printers, so this wasn't too bad. As for software, I'm using TinyG2 for the controller firmware. TinyG has an excellent interface, http://chilipeppr.com/ that lets you control the mill via a web interface. It requires some extra software to be installed on the computer, but it's pretty straightforward. It should work with Mac just the same.

    Unfortunately, I've never managed to play with any smoothie hardware yet -- they've generally been extremely expensive. The pattern is the same though -- you have the smoothieware firmware that actually runs the steppers, then your computer runs some software that sends out the Gcode line by line. This should work on mac: https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender
     
  11. James Gao

    James Gao Well-Known
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    The acrylic plates are surprisingly pretty good. My plates are super tall, so there is a small amount of side-to-side drift. However, the belt stretch is much larger than the plate bend! My only complaint with the design is mostly the weak Z axis. The spindle can shift quite a lot in the +/- Y direction, because the wheels can't apply as much force in that direction. Hence why the aluminum plates will have the extra spindle mount plate!
     
  12. Daniel Dumitru

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    Hi !
    Nice machine and heavy documented !
    Could you please share the design files ? I would like to modify it a bit. I mean to use only 20X40 profiles.
    I am thinking of a PCB making machine with a Dremel like tool.

    Kind regards,
    DAniel
     
  13. Ronald van Arkel

    Staff Member Resident Builder Builder

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    Hello Daniel,

    For the gantry you might look into a 40*40mm V-Slot instead of 2x 20*40 V-Slots; this will improve sturdiness and makes the build easier without breaking the bank.

    -Ronald
     
  14. Kaustubh Tripathi

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    Really great build. I would like to make one to suit my needs. Can you please share the openscad files?
     
  15. lunknowl

    lunknowl Well-Known
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    hi is this compatible with the 625zz bearing round
     
  16. lunknowl

    lunknowl Well-Known
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    hi can i get the openscad file of this?
     
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