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OneZ i3

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    If using a RAMPS, or other board that is limited to 1/16 microsteps, the 400 step motor produces the same quality as using a 200 step motor at 1/32. But, a 200 at 1/32 actually runs smoother and quieter (my experience). I used 400s simply because I had 20 of them from RAMPS days. But the Sainsmart does 1/32 so I'll be using 200s. I've found a unique use for 400s on a Z axis, so I'll be saving some of these for that.
     
  2. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Many thanks for such a quick reply.

    The motors came from my brother now dismantled build. So I will be using his arduino with ramps board. Does this mean that I am OK to use the 200 step motors on all axis?

    Thanks.
     
  3. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    You can use 200 step motors, but both sketches are for the Sainsmart 2in1 board. If you are going to use a RAMPS you can not use those sketches. Those sketches assume 1/32 microstepping. But even more important, those sketches define board pins for the 2in1. If you uploaded either of those sketches to a RAMPS you'd have a dead board because the pins would be wrong. Instead, use a RAMPS sketch for a Prusa i3. By default the steps, acceleration, jerk, feedrate, and homing on a Prusa sketch should be correct for 200 step motors. You will need to invert the motor directions for Z & Y axis because those motors are upside down on a OneZ. I have two old workhorse printers that I converted to OneZ layout for prototyping that still use RAMPS boards and that's all I did to the sketch. I don't still have the sketch I used, but any Marlin sketch for a Prusa i3 should work with those motors inverted. Also, the controller box is for a Sainsmart 2in1. Here's the Sketchup file for a RAMPS board box http://3dwrx.com/OneZ/ramps-box.skp and for an open mount plate (w/out box cover) http://3dwrx.com/OneZ/ramps-kit.skp. Both fit on the OneZ left upright extrusion.
     
  4. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Thanks for the information.

    I will update with how I progress with this build.

    Thanks
     
  5. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Tonight is the night that I start printing the plastic parts for this printer, is there an infill you would recommend?
     
  6. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    30% Slic3r rectilinear.
     
  7. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Thanks, I printed the first pieces (Z motor brackets) at 35% before you replied, so my guestimation wasn't too far off :)
     
  8. Christian Setla

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    I just felt I should post a thank you and a tip of the hat for this build! It's on my to-do list, I'm still waffling on a 200 x 200 or 300 x 300 build plate, but the basic design mirrors my thoughts to a T and so there is little need to do anything else but follow the bouncing ball and build it.

    So thank you again Keith, not just for building it, but for documenting and offering help to others who wish to build the same. I would purchase one from you directly, but as I am outside the USA, it appears to be rather difficult, if not impossible.

    I have started to collect the bits and pieces, and some, such as the extruder/hotend will go into my current i3 until I can built it's replacement.

    Regards

    Christian aka

    Kaptain "Whew.... I don't have to design it, just build it!" Zero
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Christian - yeah shipping an assembled is hard enough in USA. And when Steve bought the 300x300 he drove from Minneapolis to Idaho to pick it up, we didn't even contemplate shipping it.

    Shout if you need help!
     
  10. Christian Setla

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    Thanks Keith, I will!

    With a looming lockout/strike at the postal service, I'm thinking some of the parts I've ordered may get stuck for a while..... Oh well.
     
  11. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Build is going well and I have started with the framing now since I have everything. However, don't seem to have the feet on the STL, or the L Bracket for the Y-Axis. Does anybody have the STL files for these?

    Or if not, then just the thickness of the feet?

    Thanks
     
  12. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    The feet are in the misc-parts-blk.skp of the OneZ-i3-SKP.zip. The two long ones on the end.
    FEET stl link
    The L bracket is the Openbuilds double L Bracket
     
  13. lihp8270

    lihp8270 New
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    Thanks Keith :)
     
  14. Zero

    Zero New
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    I may have missed it but can this be converted to run 8mm acme screws? I already found the timing pulley needed, it should just be a matter of boring the printed parts out and getting bigger bearings right? I plan to run this with Replicape.
     
  15. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    You would also need to use an 8mm acme nut on the X axis, the OB nut block will fit but needs to be shimmed away from the X axis bar a few mm. You can use any screw you want, but you will need to alter the firmware to match the size screw. Also, with a Tr8*8-2p 8mm lead screw you will be limited to only layer heights in multiples of .04mm since Z lift should only use full step increments. The reason I use a 6mm is it gives .005mm incremental accuracy on full steps.
     
  16. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Journeyman
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    I really like your design and am thinking of making one of these. My question is in your assembly doc, I really dont see mention of what screws go where. Am I just not seeing it ???

    Thanks Steven
     
  17. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Steven, you are correct, you are just not seeing it - because it's just not there!
     
  18. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Keith, do you have a document for the extrusion sizes for the 300x300 version? I looked around, but did not see it. I thought I would convert a wood i3 at our Makerspace to your design. We have most of the parts, but I have 300x300 heat beds and boro, so it's a no brainer.
     
  19. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    DiggerJ, That was a custom build for Steve Jeppesen. I know he (and hog) were off to the annual Sturgis Rally which ended last Monday. Don't know if he's ambled back home yet but I'll email him to double-check these figures with his machine. What I have is

    20x80 frame = 490mm
    20x20 top = 450mm
    20x40 Y axis = 432mm
    20x20 X azis = 490mm
    20x20 Z axes = 460mm ea

    The frame and top pieces are fairly critical for the closed loop Z axis belt.

    Here's the SKP
     
  20. Steve Jeppesen

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    bah, using tape measure with only imperial (inches) and there is some slop on the tape measure tab due to it's age;

    20x80 frame = 19 3/8"
    20x20 top = 17 3/4"
    20x40 Y axis = 16 7/8"
    20x20 X axis = 19 5/16"
    20x20 Z axis = 18 1/4"

    due to the slop on the tap measure tab, and that I did not disassemble the printer, I'd guess a 1/16" + or - on those numbers.

    HTH

    yeah - made it home but ready to go back...ceiling fell down in one of the bedrooms after heavy rain storm here. Guess that nice size branch that fell from the tree earlier this yr did cause some roof damage.
     
  21. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Thanks Keith and Steve. And yes, Steve...I would ride out there every day if life permitted it. I dearly love the pigtails and hills around Keystone, and the Devil's Tower ride, (and party).
    Been a few since I last went, and really miss it.
     
  22. Steve Jeppesen

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    no problem Diggerj. Funny you mention the party - due to rain that included some hail, we missed the evenings festivities! We made there in the morning to buy tee-shirts and had planned on returning the same evening, but attempting to go from Hill City to Deadwood (and then to Sturgis proper from there) was cut short due to the hail. Short planning meant $$$ didn't last long so we were only there for 1 1/2 days for the most part. Estimates were roughly 300,000 made it this yr but I'm only going from what people were saying while we were there, never did look up the actual numbers after we got back to MN. That was apparently 1/2 from last yr. Since last yr was the 75th anniversary we suspect lots of folks were skipping this year.
     
  23. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Keith, I am not finding the feet for the 20x80 extrusion, in the stl zip file. Is there another file for those items?

    This is going together very nicely, and is very solid!
     
  24. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  25. Moreau vincent

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    Hi Keith , I am new to the world of 3D printing. It 6 months ago , I bought a Prusa i3 with a PLA framework with 200mm * 200mm board. Now to move forward, I plan to make a printer with double extruded heat up above 300 ° C and a hot plate to 400mm * 400mm .
    during my research , I came across your achievement and your many council. I think your achievement can match my needs but I liked your confirmation.
    For a working area of 400mm * 400mm you have a document on the size of the extrusion.
    Please do not be offended about my language , I speak French and very little English . thanking you
     
  26. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Welcome to the group, Moreau Vincent. Is there a reason you are choosing 400x400 rather than 300x300? Are you planning to direct drive your dual hotends or go Bowden with remote extruders?

    I am looking forward to Keith's reply to you.
     
  27. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Moreau You do English a LOT better than I do French my friend!

    Structurally a 400x400 should work.

    But, I built a 300x300 with dual extrusion and was really disappointed with the bowden extrusion. With that size platform the bowden tubes were so long that retraction was a major issue, producing strings and blobs. We converted that one to a single direct drive extruder. The 300x300 size itself was no problem.

    I design primarily for compactness. With a 400x400 compactness is not a primary design concern. So, I would rethink the extruder. We mounted the filament drivers on the two top corners then bowden tubed to a Chimera dual extruder. For dual extruder on a larger printer I think now I would look at mounting the drivers closer to the extruder. One possibility would be to extend the X axis bar and mount a driver on each end. Another possibility would be to mount two drivers on the back side of the X axis near the center of the X axis bar (over the print). My next printer (TrueUP Glide, which I'll be posting here soon) has the X axis motor mounted on the backside center of the X axis bar and I see no reason why an extruder driver or two could not be positioned there. Either position would enable far shorter bowden tubes. Of course, there is also the alternative of two direct drive extruders (my favorite).
     
  28. Moreau vincent

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    I thank you for your welcome.
    I chose 400 * 400 as this will allow me to print a drone in a single time without having to cut out the sections for several elements.
    My choice will detour to a head in dual direct drive extrusion. The main reason is that I want to have the posibility to print with the flexible filament.
    For the control card , I think starting with Sainsmart 2in1 board like you. Because apart from all the other benefits that you mentioned , I would supply the board with 24v . It is easier to find heated bed of 400 * 400 24v .
     
  29. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    First, I want to make sure that people understand that what I am saying in the rest of this message has nothing to do with Keith's designs, only design principle in general.
    I am about half way through building Keith's OneZ-i300 (300x300 HB), and I can tell you that it is well thought out and VERY stout for a 20x20 based printer.

    That said, have you weighed your dual hot end/extruder setup you plan on using? The stuff I am playing with, complete with 2 NEMA 17's, dual hot ends, X-chassis, fans, and other parts add up to a fair amount of weight. I have a 300x300 setup, and there is a very small amount of deflection at the center, with the weight of the parts. Add to that, I have been looking for dead flat Heat beds at 400mm, and like anything else, the larger, the more likely for variance.

    From what I have seen, flexible filament doesn't play well with any great length in bowden tube. Direct drive with enclosed path seems to get the greatest success. I would want to use 20x40 across the X axis, for rigidity. Looks like Keith's plans would allow that with a few minor changes. We are building Keith's design for our Makerspace, for the exact reason you require. Flexible printing for drone stuff. We have deltas and other printers that just don't work well with it.

    Sorry if I hijacked your thread Keith, but a nice design like yours, built with the wrong expectations will leave a bad taste in somebody's mouth, and your great plans do not deserve that.
     
  30. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Moreau, how high do you plan on going? 400mm high would be awesome to see, but that height may be outer limit for the OneZ design.

    Good thinking on the flex & direct drive. I use Sainsmart TPU flex. It's easy to print quality. It's not as flexible as NijaFlex, but it works great for vibration dampener and feet. I mention that because a drone will probably have vibration and you may find use for TPU somewhere. Also, you might try eSUN PLA Pro. It prints like PLA, has very similar rigidity to PLA but it is more like ABS for strength. It also withstands vibration very well, unlike PLA which is brittle.
     

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