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Stainless OX

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Martin.Barfoed, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Martin.Barfoed published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
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  2. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Very nice build and videos @Martin.Barfoed ! Thank you for sharing :thumbsup:
    Mark
     
  3. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Master
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    Martin, A stainless steel OX will be excellent, stainless is so much stronger and stiffer than aluminum even when half the thickness.

    This machine will look awesome and I will enjoying watching this one. Nice build thread and very nice design detailing...

    I have had a number of parts laser cut from stainless and I'm always amazed at the polished cut edge!
     
    #3 sgspenceley, Mar 25, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  4. Paruk

    Paruk Master
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    Yes, Martin! That's going to look very good. Your videos are very clear and instructive. Keep it up, please.;)
     
  5. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Thanks to the three of you for the encouragement. I will keep you posted on the progress.
    The Stainless parts are really well made w razor sharp edges. I look forward to putting them together.
     
  6. Nick W

    Nick W Veteran
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    very nice. I like your corner finding tool. I have been thinking of how to make one out of a block of material and yours is a good solution.
     
  7. Paruk

    Paruk Master
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    Nice piece of carpentry there, Martin! I thought I made a nice table, but now I have to review that opinion. I might steal your design with your permission for a future upgrade.
     
  8. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Hi Poul
    Great that you like it. I think it will come in handy - both when I need to clean up, fix something in the far corner or even if I need to work on large/long projects.

    If you make a mod to you table I would love to see the improvements made in a 2nd G - I guess that's what this site is all about.

    Best wishes, Martin
     
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  9. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Sketchup file updated. Now version_5. I have added a hole to the corner brackets to allow for wires going through the Y-profiles. E.g. for limit switches.
     
  10. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    I think I found a good way to align the upper wheels by clamping the wheels between two rails. After clamping I tighten the nut.
    upload_2015-4-18_23-43-40.png
     
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  11. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    I made a mod to the inner plate. Added holes for easier access to the screws that hold the stepper. This is particular important in the dual belt configuration as you need to tighten the belt after assembly by moving the stepper up,
    upload_2015-4-18_23-47-36.png
     
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  12. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Good thinking with the access holes for the stepper screws :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  13. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Coming along nicely Martin keep up the good work.
    BTW love the way the table turned out excellent craftsmanship
    Mark
     
  14. Joe Santarsiero

    Joe Santarsiero OB addict
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    That table is pretty great. I showed it to a couple of engineers at work. They were fans too.
    I may build one for myself.
     
  15. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Great that you like the table. Please share if you end building it. I'm sure you will work out some improvements :)
     
  16. sw3Dp

    sw3Dp Journeyman
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    Hey Martin,

    Nice build, so I'm that guy, how much did the set of gantry plate cost to get laser cut (originally.) Did you have a chance to check out the electronics?

    jack
     
  17. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Hi Jack
    As explainde in the build section I started out with 6mm aluminum plates being laser cut. As this did not give me the best plates the shop offered to redo in 4mm stainless steel. I only paid for the first set. Cost was around 300 EURO.
    When the build is finished I will ask the shop for a price for cutting e.g. 10 sets of plates in 3mm stainless. If the price is attractive I will offer them to follow builders in this forum.
    Re. the electronics. Yes I have connected all and it looks like its running very well. I plan to post a video about wireing, Mach3 setup in the coming weeks.
    I hope this answered your questions
     
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  18. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    The two Z-axis plates that I have in the .skp file only have a 5mm center finding hole where the ACME lead screw is going in. The reason is that the pocket for the bearing can not be laser cut. Hence, you will have to ask the shop to mill a 2mm Ø16mm pocket and drill the rest of the hole up from 5 to 10mm. Here you can see when we are just finishing up making the 10mm hole
    IMG_0187.JPG
     
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  19. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    With the machine on the table and all squared up I made some small 50x50x3mm angles in aluminum to keep the machine in place. upload_2015-5-25_23-5-47.png
    Sketchup file is called "Vinkel.skp"
     
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  20. sw3Dp

    sw3Dp Journeyman
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    Great build documentation, you've answered lots of my questions with your very informative videos. You should do more tutorials because you explain work flow better than most. I hope you will walk your first part from CAD to cut, can't wait to see your ox at work.
     
  21. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Thanks for the encouragement. Are there any specific tutorial you are thinking about? I do of course plan to continue with the video based build description of my Stainless OX until the very end (=actual cutting something that is not a part of the machine). I'm working on the calibration right now!
     
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  22. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Great job on the calibration videos @Martin.Barfoed They are very helpful and easy to follow along with. Thank you for sharing your build and for taking the time to put together great examples and explanation videos and pictures.
    Keep having fun!
    Mark
     
  23. Paruk

    Paruk Master
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    Hi Martin, can't wait to see your machine making nice things! It looks you're going to have a lot of fun with it (apart from the building fun!).
     
  24. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Building is really fun. Currently I'm working on the work surface, clamps etc. I'm also still thinking how best to make a dust shoe. It becomes very evident that that is needed when I started cutting in some MDF!
    I made one moving with the Z-axis for my Shapeoko but not fully satisfied with the design. There is a lot of designs out there and I think I will try to make one that is fixed to the X-axis.
    Best wishes, Martin
     
  25. Paruk

    Paruk Master
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    I made this one, that mounts on the X-axis. Works great, but not for all jobs. Some cutting needs a dust shoe with brushes, attached to the router and moving up and down with it.

    Screen Shot 2015-06-02 at 23.03.24.png
     
  26. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Veteran
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    Which Gauge of Stainless Steel did you use / mm thickness

    Thanks Steven
     
  27. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Hi Steven

    I used 4mm Stainless. It more than enough. As Stainless steel is rather heavy you may consider using 3mm. 3mm will have same or higher stiffness than 6mm aluminum

    Best wishes, Martin
     
  28. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Veteran
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    Why I was asking is they sell stainless by guage not mm. So I guess you used 9 guage which is around 3.97


    Where did you order from if you don't mind.


    Thanks Steven
     
  29. Martin.Barfoed

    Martin.Barfoed Veteran
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    Hi Steven

    That is exactly the thickness I have. My caliber measures 3.95mm. The shop I used was a local machine shop here in Denmark. They have a 2x4m laser. I'm sure you can find someone like that in your city.

    Br, Martin


    http://www.klip-buk.dk/
     
  30. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Is that real? 3mm Stainless is stiffer? Wow, would have never thought it.
     

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