Tear down of Cubify cube 3 3D Printer + convert to RepRap

It is a party indeed, I appreciate it and beyond anxious to hopefully get some instruction for the switch install!

 

time to move to the wiki with all the docs, pics and findings then

 

I wish I knew how to mess with the Wiki.

 

Im trying to install a local copy of MediaWiki.... plain simple to handle I think, I'll keep yhou posted.

BTW I can **CONFIRM** that unless I pull back the bed before printing starts, the print will go to the bed's edge instead of being centered! :??????
SOftware bug yes or yes. ANyone else noticed this?

Also, i launched a 70micron print in dual color, resulting in an early missing steps print of a few layers before I cancelled it


Seems you cant get half job done with this printer: either prints a marvel or pure ****!

 

Your manual build plate manipulation is not something normal. I have not seen this behavior on 6 printers.

This is what should happened:
The plate always parks in the forward position.
Print initiation drives the plate back and to the right until it hits the end.
Build plate rises and centers/print head moves left and centers for heating process.

The one thing that messes this up is purging. After you purge, the build plate and extruder remain centered.
When you now initiate a new print, or other maintenance step, the build plate runs to the end and makes a lot of noise (this should be the stepper motor hitting torque limits)
The same with the printhead, it also hits a hard top on the right and lets the motor time out . This is how the system homes.

If your system is not doing this, you may have had a defective unit that had a 90 day warrantee or a return to the seller (depending if yours was sold as a liquidation).
Can you post a video of the above processes to see where it goofs up?

One thing that may be going on is a poor connection somewhere. It wouldn't be the first time I've fixed something by simply removing and replacing every wire connection.

 

More fun facts; if you are designing your own parts:

Double wall thickness is 0.9mm and 4x wall is 1.8mm.

This keeps the passes close together and still remain accurate.

 

Yes, both the head and bed motors do lot of noise when homing. What I cant understand is why I need to manually push the bed or it wont center before starting printing. If its something I can repeat over and over, this must be something software related?!?


Also which sort of technology does this device run to know which rod you need to move and how much to level the bed!? this is something I never saw before! That kind of "precision" (or masked one!?) I know the light seems like a laser when coming out from the printer but it soon disperses on the bed....

 

Well WiKi is up!

Cube3 WiKi


You can register an account already and I'll start uploading all the info found in this thread asap!

 

Much cleaner! Thanks. Already signed up. You might add the history of why it was created and link back to this thread.

I added an about page. Feel free to adjust or add to.

 

I've run 1.75 carbon fiber PLA by robo 3D thru mine a lot. Not problems. Only thing I changed was carefully made an extra nozzle slightly larger. Although it wasn't nessasary really, I've run the carbon fiber PLA thru in modified nozzle also.

One thing I know is that filament from one brand isn't the same as another. They all have characteristics unique to theirselves. Some have variations in size, some with the make up of materials requiring it to be melted at a high temp.

 

I briefly had the bed issue also one night. After a few days of not using it I started off by reloading the firmware, and that corrected the issue I guess.

 

I'm actually doing this today. About to start the process. Even the internal wiring.

I was wondering about the pictures also. Once looking closer at the dirt picture you can see an addition black wire leading off the picture. This was the wire that was missing.


I'll post later today when finished

 

Thanks, I will check out Robo 3D's filament.

 

Looking forward to progress, A.R.

 

yep. me too and please take. many pics haha

 

The switch works, in going to get a smaller one tho and then take apart the cube, install and take pictures. I tend to be detailed, so when posted tonight there shouldn't be any confusion after.

 

I'm going to write it up tomorrow, but it worked. Here's a preview.

In one sec lol, adding to YouTube so I can post here

 

Love it!!!!

CongratZ!

 

Now that I reread this post.... "extra nozzle"? You mean you can switch nozzles on yours? What did you use to make it larger and keep the insides "clean"?

 

OK guys with all due respect to the OP I've created the Cube3 subforum so we can post about different stuff in a polite way (a hack per thread, questions sepparately, etc.) with searchable capabilities and not everything just focused in a single thread here...

This will also serve as knowledge base to build the wiki too.

I invite you all to join!

 

Yeah I created a log in there. I'll get on there tonight.

I got the extra nozzle off a cartridge I wasn't using. Just take a lighter and heat it up just alittle and it'll slide off. As for the bit size I'd have to look tomorrow when I'm back at the station. You can do it by hand.

I'll post the switch info in just a second here and the wiki

 

Hi, what is the best firmware for the cubify 3d third generation? Thank you.

 

What an excellent picture for the Wiki

 

Latest, 1.14B

 

Thank you Tom!

 

How to Filament Hack??

 

advancedrescue is working on that, kukatramp!


now the following is a case worth to be studied loL!

i havent stopped the print yet because so far its getting good lol but if you notice it, BLACK filament which prints a pedestal and the supports missed some steps while the green HAS NOT! LOL

 

btw @Tom Dirriwachter i've enabled a wysiwyg editor just in case u wanna spice up the about page hehe

 

Pretty straight forward operation thanks to the guide of taking the cube apart. I took a picture of the wiring diagram. The switch has to be a SPDT(Single Pole Double Throw). The location of the switch can be changed depending on your preference, there actually a lot of room back there.

I also made connectors between the front face and the wires behind the spool chip. This I believe is essential to getting the two to come together. Would have been virtually impossible to soilder while holding the two in place.

Apply a very small amount of heat via heat gun to get the abhesive loose on the chips to release from cartridge. This helps big time.

A few importants check off:
-SPDT Switch
-Black wire behind the cardride that goes to the chip connector is for the large connection point.
-Apple very small amount of heat via heat gun to get the abhesive loose on the chips to release from cartridge.

Here's the wiring set up.



This is the view from behind the chip reader. The black goes to the large contact of the chip. This worked out great for me because I was already using black for my wiring of the large contact on the chip.


Soldering two of the chip. I got glued them to the table to keep them still.



Here is the switch installed. I just used hot glue to hold my already shouldered chip in next to the switch. NOTE! I didn't solder the wires to the switch till after installed. Trust me it would cause problems trying to install the switch.



Here is the connector coming from behind the cartridge chip reader. It's literally just a red wire tapped into the cube red wire going to the reader, and the same for the black.

Here's a picture of me starting the tap of the reader wires. I usually try not to fully cut wires if I can help it. Also was able to get heat sink over the reader connector, so I staggered the taps I was making so I could slide the one heat sink over both taps and they wouldn't touch. I of course soldered these also.





After the switch is mounted with the chips inside, there will be a plug coming from those that you make. Then tap into the chip reader wires, making the plug that will join with the switch/chip wires. Then assemble the cube like you took it apart with the addition of connecting the two connectors you added.

Switch down on mine showing blue.


Switch up showing red.


I know my chips are showing 3% or empty. I have a lot of filament actually. I just know eventually this will be an issue and would rather have to ready. I'll going to run these the two chips to the 3% and 0 using the switch. I'll load normal cartridge in with its chip tapped off to not cause problems, I want the chip selected via the switch. Print and let the percentage drop from the chip inside machine.

 

I didnt get the last part, your last paragraph, about having lot of filament and "be ready". be ready for what?

also, a tutorial on how to feed open filament to the machine "the polite way" would be a great addition!