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V-slot CO2 Laser (60-100w)

Discussion in 'Laser Cutters' started by openhardwarecoza, Aug 9, 2014.

  1. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    openhardwarecoza published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Nice to see another CO2 laser build here. :)
    I am sure the V-Slot will be just ideal for your application and I look forward to following your progress. :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
    openhardwarecoza likes this.
  3. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Thanks Tweakie. neat machining you have in your shop! Jealous here (;
     
  4. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Looking forward to this laser @openhardwarecoza I need one of these in the shop :thumbsup:
    Thanks for sharing.
    Mark
     
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  5. raykholo

    raykholo Journeyman
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    Glad to see such a powerful laser. I've been wanting to put a laser onto the gantry of the CNC router I'm building right now. What does the SDZ DX go for? I think a 40 watt would be sufficient as I only would need to cut 1/2" MDF and up to 1/4" acrylic. Thoughts?

    Thanks,
    Ray
     
  6. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    I've uploaded the PI to show what I paid for the 60 and 100w tubes earlier this year.: http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/proforma-invoice-pi0011402251-3-doc.3543/

    40w is really useless, as you can see the 60w is not expensive at all at $120 for the tube and $166 for the power supply

    1/2" MDF would be really tough with anything under 80w though (unless you go really slow)

    From the laser I owned before:
    40w: Can't cut 6mm ply, 4mm was the best and still needed two passes sometimes. Acrylic 3mm was easy, 6mm would get tough. To me a 40w is more of an engraver than a cutter
    60w: I've cut 8mm MDF at 250mm/min - slow but at least it does cut... 6mm Acrylic was fine
    100w: 8mm MDF was not a challenge, 8mm acrylic was not a challenge either. Havent really found any non-metal bits I couldnt cut


     
    #6 openhardwarecoza, Aug 10, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2014
  7. raykholo

    raykholo Journeyman
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    Thanks for the information. The $100 to ship is a bit unsettling, but that just means I have to do it right in the future. Everything I want to do now should be handled by 3D Printer and/or CNC.

    Have you tried cutting metal on the 100w?
     
  8. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Keep in mind that shipping was for a 1.2 cubic meter crate (since it was 3 tubes and 2 PSUs) and they are packed in foam inside a box, wrapped in foam in a second box. At least you know they get here safe.

    That shipping was domestic as well from SDZ to our container in Shangai.
    but feel free to hunt around - using SDZ and LCL shipping would be a lot cheaper than buying locally
     
  9. raykholo

    raykholo Journeyman
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    Oh, I'm not complaining - I'm just setting the expectation that I'll do it this way, correctly, but in the future.
     
  10. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    V Slot for X Y rails arrived yesterday!
     
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  11. aco

    aco New
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    Cool project and even cooler that you're sharing it, I've been looking for something like this for a while, kind of needed a reasonable base for a similar build so I'll be following this indeed :) do you have any idea of the total cost as of yet?

    Best regards
     
  12. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Is there a way to manually sort the Order of the BOM?
     
  13. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Right so couple of updates.

    1. Big batch of V Slot from the Fairshare Programme has cleared local customs and should arrive this week.
    2. DQ542MA 128 Microstep drivers has left china earlier this week using EMS and should arrive the week after next (10 days from now)
    3. 24v and 5v PSUs will be delivered on Monday - I bought Meanwell's from www.mantech.co.za but really anything goes
    4. I ordered the V_Wheels on a previous order already so they are here in the shop ready to go.
    5. I had the Aluminum parts lasercut on Friday: Update with Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/104034368033227202956/posts/3bo4RUWo6R6
    6. The community has spoken and the machine has a new name: FreeBURN (see https://plus.google.com/104034368033227202956/posts/PNVZ3WXeUnc for details of the voting process)
    7. 60w tube/psu was temporilly installed in iSigns.co.za (local signwriting company)'s commercial lasercutter when their tube broke - to carry them through to next week when their replacement 150w arrives. In that 150w order there is also a spare 100w. So FreeBURN-1 can be fitted with either my spare 60w or the spare 100w. Suspect we'll go for the 100 w :)
    8. While the 60w was installed I did some speed tests. In interest of tube life we try to keep power @65% and rather adjust cutting speeds. So 60w, at 65% managed to cut 6mm Acrylic, and 4mm MDF at a comfortable 11mm/second feedrate :)
    9. Ordered my T-Nuts and 2020 Corner brackets (unfortunately I forgot to order them from OpenBuilds last week) along with some regular stock we order from our chinese suppliers to save on shipping. We DHL in Bearings/Motors/ballscrews for our store openhardware.co.za so throwing the brackets in the same order saved quite a bit. But for your own builds remember to get from OpenBuilds...

    10. I am still tied undecided between using the Lasersaur based control system I designed and used on my V1 laser (which gives a very easy to use Laser CUTTER) or buy a DSP for $250 and have both a (slightly more difficult to use) lasercutter but also a raster engraving machine. Since the machine will be based in the iSigns workshop due to space in my home being cramped - having a DSP would open it up to actually make some money as there is a lot of engraving work.

    But I would prefer to have it a fully opensource solution... And LaserSaur is working on Raster support though it is in the early days still... so I think I'll develop the V3 Lasersaur derivitive boards anyway and install that for now. So the choice is tricky and I am open for suggestions.

    For the majority of the "engineers" a 'cutter suffices (you can still burn text etc on parts using low power vector passes). What I'm reffering to is actual raster image engravings. Signwriters need it, Engineers don't...
     
  14. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Updated Costing sheet attached to project
     
  15. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    90 deg Corner brackets and T Nuts arrived.

    Looks like the VSlot might be at the post office today
     
  16. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Almost there :)
     

    Attached Files:

  17. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Updated the build instructions
     
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  18. Atomist

    Atomist Journeyman
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    I have been wanting to build a laser cutter for awhile. What is the proposed cutting area in this build? Also, Aside from the XY stage, could something like Misumi HSF5 T-Slot be used for the frame to bring the cost down considerably? Just curious why you went with all V-Slot. Is there something I am missing or could T-Slot be substituted for all the frame and then build the XY axis's from V-Slot?
     
  19. raykholo

    raykholo Journeyman
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    Depending on how you go about it, dealing with only one order may be cheaper than two separate ones, especially since he isn't in the USA. That said, v-slot completely interchangeable with other base 20 extrusions such as Misumi and 80/20.
     
  20. Atomist

    Atomist Journeyman
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    More questions, I have seen 3D printed parts used on some other laser builds, how do you think 3D printing the plates would fair? I have a couple 3D printers and am building a CNC machine, but do you think they'd work okay? And then I could swap them out down the road once I got my other machines going. I'm trying to come up with things to make this build cheaper to immediately get into and also more accessible to myself and others.

    As for the electronics, is there a particular DSP you'd recommend? And is there anyway to get more info on the Wantai deal you mention in your bill of materials? I have all the parts picked out for doing this build in T-Slot from Misumi and the XY stage with V-Slot from open builds. As soon as the Misumi site gets done doing maintenance I'll finally be able to see if it's any cheaper or enough savings to make it worth going this route. I'm working on sourcing the other components now. I really like what you've created and want to bring this to fruition.
     
  21. Atomist

    Atomist Journeyman
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    I went ahead and ordered all the extrusion and mechanical components for this build. I went with T-Slot from Misumi for the frame. And ordered V-Slot from Openbuilds for the XY Stage. If anybody is interested I can post the BOM for doing this build this way. It won't be tested until I receive the extrusions and get it put together, but I don't expect any problems. Further more I have created STL files from the Sketchup design provided so that the plates could be printed on a 3D printer. I can share those if anybody wants them. I split a few of the brackets into sections for easier printing and added holes to to secure the plates together.

    Just a few observations and questions. I know the BOM isn't finalized but I noticed you don't have any idler wheels listed in your BOM. Everything else is there for the XY stage except them. Another thing, the 100W laser tube is listed at 1400mm long. This build is only 1300 in length. Any update on your build using the 100w tube? I've also tried contacting sdzlaser several times for a quote and not gotten a return email. I'd really like some more info on where and how you secured some of the parts for your build. I guess I'll keep waiting :p
     
  22. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Sorry I haven't checked in here in a while - as our post office continues into its third month of strikes (http://www.postoffice.co.za/group/pressreleases/updatesalarynegotiations31oct14.html) no end in sight yet to a backlog of the parts I am still waiting for to kick off the build. :/

    +Atomist, I would not trust 3D printed parts in a machine with this much power... Metal will greatly reduce the risk of a breakdown or worse an accident.

    There are 3 x Idler wheels in use - must still update the BOM with those but do check the Google Plus OpenBuilds group for some photos...
    The 625 flange bearings on the BOM was actually spec'ed to be the idler wheels :) two of them back to back make a great idler.

    The 1.3m length of mine is limited by the fact that USPS can only ship 1m lengths to ZA. If you can get the 1.5m's stretch the X axis! Then you can easily have a 1.4m X-cutting length

    If you have questions and I dont reply here use the Google group - much easier.
     
  23. openhardwarecoza

    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Builder

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    Updated BOM to say 6 x 625F or 3 x OpenBuilds idlers
     
  24. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Its ALIVE!!!

    FreeBurn. Open Source laser cutter made with OpenBuilds.com V Slot.
    Designed by OpenHardware.co.za
    Built by Theo Moelich

     
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  25. matt_o_70

    matt_o_70 Journeyman
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    I am wondering if any of the builders of freeburn style 100w lasers have any updates from actual build experience or modifications?

    I am looking at building one of the OpenHardwareCoZa controller boards from the dirtyPCB file shares on the freeburn 2 thread.
     
  26. Atomist

    Atomist Journeyman
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    Well from the top of my head, mind you I still haven't finished mine...The longest laser tube you can fit is about 1250mm. Reci makes a 80/90 watt tube that will fit within those dimensions as it is 1250mm, but it will probably be tight. But pretty much every other laser tube manufacturer has their laser tubes coming in at 1400mm for a 80/90 watt. If you want a 100w, Reci again makes the shortest I've seen available at 1450mm and again most other tubes are 200mm longer at 1650mm. So if you build your laser, like I did, according to the dimensions and overlook this fact :p Your tube won't fit and you would need to build on a little side box or extended your electronics area or the laser axis's. Basically what I've been planning on doing is ordering 1500mm extrusions to replace the 1000mm ones I originally bought. I have my frame built and would have to swap out the X axis lengths. Let me tell you it's a pretty nice size cut area at 1000mm and 1500mm is huge when I tape measured it out. But if you want to use some of the higher power tubes, you will need to build bigger somewhere in order to fit the tube.

    It should also be noted that I ordered T-Slot from misumi originally and ordered them at the lengths I needed. So everything came pre-cut quite nicely. Then I ordered V-Slot for the X and Y axis's. This saved me some money and headache. But you should probably check prices bc some of the prices on V-Slot vs T-Slot are more competitive now, if you were going to go the same route. I think 20x20 prices are fairly close but T-Slot is still considerably cheaper in 20x40mm extrusions. Talking saving several hundred dollars. BUT if you're ordering during this sale...that could offset the cost difference.

    Since I have to redo my build I had considered ordering the Mini-V linear actuators and reworking the design to use them. This would allow most people a way to easily get their XY Stages up and running. The one concern would be having two independent motors on the Y axis, instead of having a drive shaft running the opposite Y rail. I have seen DIY lasers do it both ways and haven't really read about much issues in terms of everything staying in alignment. Pretty much every CNC/3D Printer uses two motors so I think it'd be okay. But since this is a laser it might be more finicky, especially when running at high speeds to do engraving.

    I would recommend buying adjustable laser tube mounts instead of making your own. This will help with aligning the laser. I'd buy the better laser mirror mounts, not the ones in the BOM. And I went with 25mm mirrors with a 20mm laser head instead of 18mm. Obviously there's a lot more to getting this laser going than what's in the BOM. That gets you the core components. But there's a lot of things you will need/want. Misc connectors and fittings for your water cooling system/air assist. You'll probably want some solenoid controlled valves for controlling them. And speaking of cooling the laser, you'll probably definitely want to build or buy a cooling system that's more than a bucket of water and a pump. Larger lasers produce more heat. I bought some larger heat sinks, PC water cooling radiators and some peltier cooling chips. I bought DIN rail to mount my electronics. DIN power supply's, terminal blocks etc. Then you may want to consider building some type of Z axis. Whether it's motorized or not the Z axis/bed is difficult to work with in the current design. I mean you can just fix the bed to other extrusion. But when you get down to it, I think most people will want/need a Z axis. There's lots more but...for now

    That is my ramble. I just didn't want someone to find themselves in the same situation.
     
  27. matt_o_70

    matt_o_70 Journeyman
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    Thanks for your feedback.. I was looking at using the Buildlog.net frame calculator (SCAD file) that can be found on thingiverse to scale up as required and generate a cut list, jump to 2040 to beef somethings up - Misumi for the frame. I have some unused open rail and Vslot that i could us for the gantry.

    I'd like to know about what you have learned for mirror and optics sources - since it always seems that with DIY projects - its only after you are done that you really know what you should have to shop for parts..
     
  28. Atomist

    Atomist Journeyman
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    I ordered the main laser components from Sinjoe Laser. I ordered their 80-100w tube, at the time Reci was changing factories and you couldn't get new tubes. I'll link the comparable Reci, but I can't really say enough about the service Sinjoe gave me. The tube is extremely well made. And to be honest, I did a lot of reading before I ordered any parts. And a lot of people who had been there suggested to me to not buy a Reci tube. Not because it's not a good tube. But because they don't last. I'm sure it varies. For a long time Reci was practically the only reputable tube manufacturer. That has changed and there are quite a few manufacturers that are just as good. Sinjoe had the things I needed at the best prices and the cheapest shipping. I got my items in about a week and everything was packaged extremely well. I saved several hundreds ordering the components through them.

    I was looking back on Sinjoe's website and their website was quoting shipping as about 3x more expensive than what I paid. So I contacted Sinjoe and am waiting to hear back. I think there may be something wrong with the quoting system. I'll update when I know. But for now I would contact them to get an accurate quote. Also, contacting them with what you want will typically get you a little lower price. I'd put it all in an email or the contact form and ask for a quote to your location.

    CO2 Laser Tube 80-100w 1400mm - Co2 Glass Laser Tube S8 Model 80w Sinjoe Brand 1400mm Longth 80mm Diameter
    Comparable Reci Tube 80w 1250mm - Co2 Laser Tube Reci S2 Model 80w 1250mm Longth 80mm
    Diameter
    (If you decide to order from Sinjoe and you're getting this tube, get the power supply they recommend for the Reci tubes. They are tailored for Reci tubes)

    Lens Set 50.8mm
    - Co2 Laser Focus Lens U.S Materials 1Pcs+ Co2 Laser Reflection Mirror Si Materials 3Pcs (Comes with 3 25mm SI Mirrors and then the 20mm laser head lens)

    Controller
    - Co2 Laser Cutter Engraver Driller Dsp Control System Awc708C LITE (Love this controller. Worth the money IMO. Do not buy the Plus version unless you really just want the numpad. The only difference between the Plus and Lite is the numpad and the fact that the Plus can control 8 lasers...instead of the Lite's 4. Everything else is identical)

    CO2 Power Supply
    - Co2 Laser Power Supply Dy10 For 80-100W Laser Tube

    Laser Head - Pro laser head mount for 25mm mirror & 20mm focus lens. LR Type

    Mirror Mounts - Pro 25mm reflection mirror mount for Co2 laser machine

    Laser Tube Mount - Pro Laser Tube Mount 80mm (adjustable)

    Stepper Motor Drivers - THB6064 MassMind Stepper Motor Driver Kit (I love these
    affordable stepper drivers, have to solder them tho. Google video how to shows the entire process)

    Solenoid Valve 1
    - 3/8" 12VDC Hose Barb Electric Solenoid Valve Plastic Body 450mA 12-volt DC New

    Solenoid Valve 2 - 1/4" NPT Electric Solenoid Valve 12-Volt DC, 12VDC, N/C, RO, Air, Water BBTF

    CO2 Laser DC Current Meter 100ma - 0-100 Ma. Dc. EL METER DAY / NIGHT VIEWING (I paid more for the aesthetics and build quality)

    Misc Din Power Supplies
    - galco-industrial-electronics | eBay (These are well made and affordable din rail mount power supplies)

    Air Pump -
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPM91W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04 (From my reading, this is more than adequate for air assist. This guy puts out quite a bit of air. I didn't feel the need for a full on air compressor)

    Water Pump
    - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN33O6M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07 (Again paid more after MUCH reading. If I'm spending all this money, I want it to last. Not fail)

    Misc Water Cooling Components for DIY water cooler - (This isn't everything, I'm mostly linking stuff to give ideas. If I had to do it over, I'd prob order the large radiator from lightobject)

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFDS3JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s08
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050MR8CG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages10
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHWAVQ6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYDREUE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages13
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDL22O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ODM76C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJAX9XQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01
    Light Object Radiator - 12inch (300mm) Water Evaporator/ Cooler Radiators for CO2 Laser Cooling
    (prob overkill, I didn't buy this but it appears to be an ideal radiator)

    Exhaust Components
    - (Again not everything, just stuff I either got or saved. Not linking anything that I don't feel is adequate to the purpose)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EX02DA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s11 (Moves quite a bit of air, it's important to have the inside closed off so vacuum like action can take place when venting the fumes. Moves 200+ CFM according to specs. Don't know yet if this will be enough but I think these in-line blowers are ideal. They don't take up much space, are 12v and you can always add more)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NE59HE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PQDUA0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04

    Test Fire Button - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85DBGM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

    Din Circuit Breakers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG85VYO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

    SSR - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KPIX9A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07

    Potentiometer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTWDHIO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07 (For controlling test fire power)

    Potentiometer Knob
    - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQLORZ0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

    Fused Receptacle - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07

    DC to DC Buck Converters - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHBEE0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

    Inductive Proximity Sensors - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PACB4H6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

    I'll add more stuff if I find or remember it. There's still quite a bit of stuff missing. If you go DIN Rail mount electronics, you'll want din rail. It can be found cheap locally or online. You'll need appropriate fittings for you air assist and water cooling. I can't remember if the laser head comes with the air assist connector. If it does not, I believe it's a 1/8 BST(might be NPT) You'd want a 90 male to thread into the side of the nozzle. If you decide to use solenoids to control the flow of air/water, you'll need the connectors to make that happen. Which is one reason why I love the controller I linked from Sinjoe. It has all the inputs and outputs to easily connect and control all that. Otherwise you'll have to figure it all out through whatever board/medium you'll be running the laser with. I still need a water reservoir to complete my water cooling setup.

    I originally was doing the drive shaft on the Y Axis. I bought a long piece of decent 5/16 steel rod, can't remember the exact type but I found something that was fairly good dimensionaly. You don't need one of the expensive shafts to turn a pulley. If you go this route you'll need 8mm GT2 pulleys. Or if you have a way to turn down the rod on a lathe you can do that. 8mm GT2 pulleys, not a lot of places sell them, I found mine on ebay. When I change out my extrusions for the longer ones, I haven't decided if I will do two motors or stick to the drive shaft.
     
    #28 Atomist, Nov 27, 2015
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2015
    snokid and eddiejr like this.
  29. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Kudos, Atomist, for this detailed list. Anyone who wants to build one can go shopping for nearly everything using your list. Great! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
  30. James_Hopkins

    James_Hopkins Well-Known
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    This is a great build. I want to start the ordering process but does anyone have a complete and updated BOM? I wanna use a 100 watt tube.
    Also does anyone have more pictures and videos?
     

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