This all started by the end of 2015 when i got my first CnC build and added a laser diode to it. At that point i was looking for a controller software to run it but mostly found ugly, feature lacking, windows only options..... Until i found LaserWeb developed by the incredible Peter van der Walt (Peter van der Walt - Google+), on almost the same need as mine, there simply wasn't a real open source platform independent solution.
Forward a couple of months and at that point LaserWeb had matured so much and other user where showing off some really cool projects and all i had was a 3.8w Diode, so with the help of the community ( K40 LASER CUTTING ENGRAVING MACHINE - Community - Google+ ) and the OpenBuilds FairShare program i got to buy a K40 Chinese Laser Cutter.
Since the moment i received it i have been thinking of this project in my head. How can i get more space out of this box?
*Note that at this point i had already upgraded my stock controller to a smoothieware board.
The build image above is where i am at this point, but that was not what i had in mind while i was designing this.
The original idea was more like placing the whole gantry plus the motorized bed that i could just put in, like so
That all changed as i was about to go in... now im attaching the profiles directly to the case itself, i inspected how in parallel where laterals and they seem about right.
At this point i had already cut all the acrylic parts to be used in the build.
- First up is to remove the metal division inside the case. These have plenty solder joint points. I took my Dremel and started cutting. It was the part i least liked about this process. You can see in the image that i battled hard.
- Now it was time to remove the gantry, fairly easy, just some bolts with nuts bellow the black frame.
- Cut the Openbuilds profiles to length. This will be the lateral of the gantry
- Drill some holes on the side panels of the K40 laser cutter. This will be you where you mount the profiles you just cut. The location of this whole is one of the most important part of the build. They will determine how high your mirror will end up to. Note that the idea of the acrylic bracket having an oval hole is to be able to adjust and level the gantry but mind that pressing the screws to hard could break the acrylic.
- Mount the profiles and level them, you need a reference point also to do this since both side need to be at equal height. Again this is very important as the whole point of this build besides getting a larger bed is to make laser alignment easier.
- Get your gantry side plates with the mini wheels on those profiles and measure the distance from side to side. Be very careful here, you need to be as precise as possible. once you cut it finish assembly. Be sure to add some t-nut for later use with the motors.
September 24, 2016
October 3, 2016
Had to use the router to cut a new mirror holder
Fire in the hole
Modifying the K40 laser cuter stock gantry in favor of OpenBuilds superior and smoother movement. Also will provide me a better level control for easier beam alignment.
- Build License:
- CC - Attribution - CC BY
Reason for this BuildWanted do get a larger cut size out of the stock K40 Laser Cuter
Qty Part Name Part Link Comments 1 V-Slot Linear Rail 20mm x 40mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-linear-rail/ Link You'll cut to length 12 Delrin Mini V Wheel Kit http://openbuildspartstore.com/delrin-mini-v-wheel-kit/ Link 3 GT2 (2mm) Timing Pulley - 20 Tooth http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt2-2mm-timing-pulley-20-t... Link 3 Smooth Idler Pulley Wheel Kit http://openbuildspartstore.com/smooth-idler-pulley-wheel-... Link 12 GT2 2mm Timing Belt http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt2-2mm-timing-belt/ Link 2 Tee Nuts (25 Pack) http://openbuildspartstore.com/tee-nuts-25-pack/ Link 50 Low Profile Screws M5 - 10mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/low-profile-screws-m5/ Link 3 NEMA 17 Stepper Motor http://openbuildspartstore.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/ Link 1 4.5mm Acrylic of your choice http://amzn.to/2dhmNr7 Link I would not recommend anything less 0 Link