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Lautr3k

Discussion in '3D printers' started by skarab, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    skarab published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Hi @skarab thank you for sharing your build it looks great! Assembly seems simple and straight forward.
     
  3. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Thank you to you! for this very nice site :)
     
  4. blindflight

    blindflight Veteran
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    This is a very unique build with lots of room and no belts !!! Very slick layout... :)
     
  5. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    @skarab Thank you but its guys like you willing to share what you have built and what you have learned that make it great, we just started the ball rolling :)
     
  6. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Could you please post the STLs in the files section? Thank you
     
  7. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    When it is asked so nicely, even a lazy like me have to execute! it's done ;)
     
  8. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    :D thank you sir!
     
  9. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    The new pics you post look fantastic! I really like this one
    The prints are coming out great on this machine

    [​IMG]
     
    enes yucepur likes this.
  10. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Yes, I'm really happy :) For first tests it's great.
    The extruder has a little paine, I think change to a geared extruder in order to go faster.
     
  11. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Yeah they always are, but I have just bought a E3D all metal hot end and I am hopeful. From reading the 3D printer forums that its 'the one' to have. We will see :)
    http://www.filastruder.com/products/all-metal-e3d-hotend
     
  12. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Yep the E3D has a good reputation. But I've already invested in another project:
    Pico All-Metal Hotend up to 500°C and yet my j-head going very well, it is really the body of the extruder which is not great. Direct drive does not have enough torque.
     
  13. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    I was thinking J head as a lot of people seem to like that one as well.
    What about a bigger stepper or a geared stepper
     
  14. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    I think a geared stepper and a geared extruder have the same performance.
    But i think a bigger stepper does not solve the problem...
    In addition, the lever of the extruder does not push enough, this system does not seem serious.
     
  15. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    More heavy duty spring maybe?
     
  16. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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  17. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    It looks really good, interesting options, but too expensive.
     
  18. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    agreed but I hope it will open the doors for more
     
  19. Aravoth

    Aravoth Well-Known
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    Using one 20mm extrusion might not have enough meat to handle the entire direct drive extruder assembly. Steppers can generate enough tourque to pull your hot end around while it's extruding or retracting.

    You might try using a geared stepper, but instead of using a direct drive, maybe entertain the idea using a Bowden's style extrusion system. This would significantly lighten the load on your X and Z axis, allowing you to print much faster. (In theory anyway) It does have it's own drawbacks, but it might be worth looking into.
     
  20. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    @kram242 I hope too.
    @Aravoth: Yes you are right, the Bowden system should be considered. But it also has its incionveniants. Must be tested :)
     
  21. Airsmith

    Airsmith New
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    Nice looking build!

    Would you recommend a thicker X axis Vslot if you were using dual nozzles? Let's say 20x40 or even 20x60 to hold both nozzles/extruders/fans?
     
  22. Aravoth

    Aravoth Well-Known
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    I would bet that adding a thicker V-Slot would grant much more rigidity to any extruder assembly.
     
  23. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Yes I would recommend an x-axis more rigid, perhaps two V-Slot 20x20, rather than 40 or 60, if more direct drive, or geared extruder. Maybe mounting as the Y axis but 20x20 and vertically ...
    But I think for printing in several colors / materials, Bowden is a best solutions without changing the X axis (which is not so flexible).
     
  24. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    I would think a 20x40 on end would do the trick for that short of a span
     
  25. maxoutny

    maxoutny Well-Known
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    BOM missing some parts:
    2 x 605ZZ bearings
    4 x step motor coupling
     
  26. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Oops, yes you're right. I would add what is missing tonight. Thank you.
     
  27. maxoutny

    maxoutny Well-Known
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    New firmware supporting Auto Leveling for Z-Axis, it would be a good thing to add for such great
    printer. Also I may try to use it for PCB milling.....
     
  28. carl

    carl Journeyman
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    what is the board you are using? and can you post the firmware files please skarab
     
  29. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Auto-leveling is a very good thing, but very difficult to implement. Z-probing is much simpler, but in my opinion it is not useful, normally once properly adjusted the bed does not move. Another more simple solution that requires no changes in the hardware, but only on the firmware : the semi-automatic leveling, see this video from the Kühling brothers .

    I use smoothie firmware on the wonderful smoothieboard. I have add the config file, but only for information. At the moment I'm still looking the best settings. Remember this is a work in progress, all is not yet set to perfection.

    I apologize again for my English, I am not aware if it is readable or not for you. (I use a translator)
     
  30. carl

    carl Journeyman
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    no need to apologize it all good to me. thank you ... im buying my parts now BUT OH http://www.motedis.com do not ship to the U.K. trying to find the Profile B-type slot 6 - 20 x 20 x 430mm and so on,,, else were can any one help?
     

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