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Questions about building a 3D printer

Discussion in '3D printers' started by JCPhlux, Sep 8, 2014.

  1. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    1. Why do most 3d printer have moving beds?
    2. I am thinking about converting my old cnc Shapeoko v1 to a 3d printer, is that a bad idea?
    3. What is the cheapest design to go with for a 3d printer scratch build?
     
  2. bobt

    bobt Veteran
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    Yes you can convert a ShapeOko into a 3d printer. Only problem is you have to replace your electronics as a ShapeOko only has 3 Stepper Drivers on it's board. You will atleast have to upgrade to a RAMP 1.4 system for the electronics support
    A cheap and very usefull 3d printer is from MakerFarm. I have posted a build of their kit here. http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/bobs-3d-printer-kit-build.651/ The kit is for a 8" x 8" x 7 3/4" build volume and it uses V-slot for the movement. They also have a 10" kit available for less than $600.00.

    Bob
     
  3. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    I ended up buying a Prusa i3 on ebay hope i made a good choice.
     
    #3 JCPhlux, Sep 9, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2014
  4. dddman

    dddman Master
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    Yes you did ;)
     
  5. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    It looks like they're using too small of steppers and the acrylic will eventually cause problems. The extruder and hot end combination also looks weak and almost guaranteed has bad thermal properties.

    You might get lucky with a certain material at a certain speed though. The prusa i3 isn't a bad design, but there's a ton of people putting out less than desirable kits to be a part of the race to the bottom.
     
  6. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    I will probably design a new one next year but I wanted to get a kit for my first. I know it might not be the best of parts but it should work as a starter.
     
  7. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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  8. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    Well ti is too late now. The kit will be here Friday.
     
  9. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    What type of problems am I going to see with the acrylic?
     
  10. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    * Don't overtighten
    * Don't use loctite, or any other form of glue without being absolutely certain it's acrylic safe. It probably isn't.
    * You'll hate the nuts you slide in from the side with one hand, while you hold the two parts in place with your other hand, and tighten the screw with the other hand.
    * Don't overtighten. No, really-- Watch the surface, if you start seeing rainbows, you're already too tight, back off a bit.


    https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/3dprintertipstricksreviews/N3MVCCa1lg0

    Things you normally do to keep your printer rigid (only way to get good prints is to have a rigid printer), you can't do very well with acrylic, because it gets stress cracks very easily.

    The kit will come with good parts that are a reasonable price even without the acrylic frame and low current steppers. If you decided to build a better printer with most of the same parts you could later on without much lost. There's an i3 variant on here with all vslot, another option you could probably do without needing much else (if your printer can print the parts) is something like the Wilson TS. http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Wilson
     
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  11. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    I posted the link to that google group, because someone bought the same kit you did. I see that kind of buy everyday. It's so cheap that people can't say no. I've helped a whole lot of people with printer calibrations / fixes. There's some things you can go cheap on and some things you can't.

    One big thing that I come across that drives me the most crazy is the amount of people who think they can build a hotend from scratch that will work well, not many people in the world have done that, and hotend thermals are extremely important for worry free printing. An easy way to waste countless frustrating hours is to use a bad hotend.
     
  12. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    So what would be the first thing you would upgrade. I was thinking of putting it in a box (not heated) as it will be inside with the AC also I want to run a vent hose to the window.
     
  13. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    Stepper motors first. Hot end and extruder second.
     
  14. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    Also, start out with PLA. Abs and acrylic aren't friends. You won't need any venting or enclosure for PLA and your prints will be more rigid.
     
  15. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    Why do they not get along?
     
  16. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    Abs needs a lot of heat and gasses off. It's also several times harder to get consistently good prints with.

    Abs was designed for injection molding because it shrinks and pops itself free from molds. That amount of shrinkage causes several problems in FFF printing. It's cheap is why it's used. And it's cheap because it's widely used for a different application.

    In not saying don't use it, just don't start with it.
     
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  17. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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    Hmm ok I will have to order some PLA, I already got some ABS but will hold on to it for now.
    Thanks for all the help.
     
  18. JCPhlux

    JCPhlux Veteran
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  19. Justin Edwards

    Justin Edwards Journeyman
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    If you have a jigsaw you can use some MDF or melamine board and cut out the Mendel90 frame and attach your parts to it and have a very rigid very square printer.
     

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