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TACIT RONIN CNC - Flood Coolant Enabled C-Beam

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by alex_b, May 17, 2016.

  1. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    alex_b published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
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  2. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Alex - your Builds are amazing. This is beyond words! I believe this Build is going to help so many people. We have a lot of Builders asking how they can cut carbon fiber and this will be a great resource for them to look to. Thank you for taking the time to put such a great, complete Build together and thank you for all the kind words.
    Your friend,
    Mark
     
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  3. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    @Mark Carew Glad it might help people! I've found that there is a multitude of info online about cutting metal and wood but cutting composites seems to be somewhat of a dark art in the general cnc community. I hope to do my part to change that because I think carbon fiber and G10 have really growing potential. I have a couple more upgrades planned to increase rigidity in the near future too. (those new dual c-beam plates are awesome.) Our trusty OX can finally go back to cutting wood as this C-Beam design has been a great workhorse over the last while. And to be honest, with the high rpms composites need to be cut at, not many commercial machines would even be up for the types of cutting we do.
     
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  4. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    awesome!
     
  5. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Excellent write-up and a great machine, Alex! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
     
  6. snokid

    snokid Veteran
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    Wow impressive for sure!!!!
     
  7. MaryD

    MaryD Master
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    Great video production to boot. A+.
     
  8. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    Thanks everyone! Will be uploading a couple more vids of full pallet runs for some carbon fiber jobs we've done recently.
     
  9. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    Made an update to the build today, more pics in the post. Significant increases in rigidity by bolting a v-slot to the back of the X-Axis C-Beam and swapping in the double-wide gantry plate on the Z-Axis.

    2016-05-20 20.51.22.jpg 2016-05-20 20.53.59.jpg
     
  10. Davey Rance

    Davey Rance Well-Known
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    Great build. Are you controlling the spindle from Tiny G or doing manually? If you are doing it from the TinyG are you doing all 3 options (On, Direction, Speed) As i am about to do the same i have just been working on getting all the tubing in place for my spindle and trying to figure out how i can control it all from the TinyG
     
  11. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    I'm just controlling the spindle manually, start, stop, rpm adjust, etc. I believe it is possible to hook up the spindle to the TinyG as there is an array of PWM connections on the inverter. The inverter manual with these spindles describe the pwm connections fairly well I believe.
     
  12. Julius

    Julius Veteran
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    Sorry for ignorance, but what are those electrical quick connects you are using?
     
  13. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    For most of my electrical connections I used a ratcheting crimping tool and ferrule crimping connectors. Makes connecting stepper motors to the pin terminal quite easy. Got them off of ebay I believe. Inverter connections I used crimping ring terminals from a local hardware store. Just have to match the wire gauge to the connectors and away you go!
     
  14. Julius

    Julius Veteran
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    Thanks. All sorted now. I ended up buying a bunch of 0.1 pitch terminals that I'll just plop into all of the female pins and use it that way! My new shield is ALL male pinned already so I got some 20awg f/f jumpers that I can splice together to the stepper motors (all the other jumpers are 30awg, too thin for splicing)

    The play in the C beam has become apparent in my machine as I tried alu again, so do you feel like if I bought the XL plate and added 4 Xtreme wheels to the outside as well as the inside 4 that it'd get rid of all or most of that? Do you have a file for the one you made (or the spacing to add outside wheels)?

    Also curious where you got the vice, all the ones on ebay have like 200$ in shipping fees estimated. No thanks!
     
  15. Julius

    Julius Veteran
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    Thanks. All sorted now. I ended up buying a bunch of 0.1 pitch terminals that I'll just plop into all of the female pins and use it that way! My new shield is ALL male pinned already so I got some 20awg f/f jumpers that I can splice together to the stepper motors (all the other jumpers are 30awg, too thin for splicing)

    The play in the C beam has become apparent in my machine as I tried alu again, so do you feel like if I bought the XL plate and added 4 Xtreme wheels to the outside as well as the inside 4 that it'd get rid of all or most of that? Do you have a file for the one you made (or the spacing to add outside wheels)?

    Also curious where you got the vice, all the ones on ebay have like 200$ in shipping fees estimated. No thanks!
     
  16. alex_b

    alex_b Journeyman
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    I think the custom X-plate I made definitely helped the rigidity. I also bolted a spare V-Slot extrusion directly to the back of the C-Beam to shore things up even more. The next thing that I noticed gave a large rigidity improvement was the double wide Z gantry plate. I don't cut a lot of metal so I can't really say how much this improved my axial cutting/plunging ability but it definitely helped improve radial cutting forces. The X-Plate file I used is in the resources section here. It can be tweaked at will in Fusion if that is your CAD of choice. The new thicker X gantry plate in the parts store would also definitely be an improvement over the default 3mm universal plate in the original C-Beam.

    The low profile vice I just picked up locally, (for the same aforementioned issue you had) from Acklands-Grainger up here in Canada.
     
  17. Julius

    Julius Veteran
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    I'll definitely look into the longer C beam plate. My limit switch is about 40mm from the top and that area can be filled with plate and another set of mini wheels.

    The plate I meant was the alu one you made that allows for wheels to also be on the outside of the C beam. All I really need is the hole spacing you used, (DERP. Just remembered C beam is 80mm so it'd be exactly the same as my gantry plates. Ignore me!)


     
  18. Julius

    Julius Veteran
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    I'll definitely look into the longer C beam plate. My limit switch is about 40mm from the top and that area can be filled with plate and another set of mini wheels.

    The plate I meant was the alu one you made that allows for wheels to also be on the outside of the C beam. All I really need is the hole spacing you used, (DERP. Just remembered C beam is 80mm so it'd be exactly the same as my gantry plates. Ignore me!)


     

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