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Small Red OX

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Jestah, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    Below you will find a rough pictorial guide to building a Ox router. This is a work in progress so check back often for updates and changes.

    Preparation

    Cut V-Slot extrusion to required lengths. Optional: mill / sand and cut ends as square as possible to ensure ease of alignment later on.
    [​IMG]

    Tap V-Slot for mounting.
    [​IMG]
    We recommend tapping the following:
    • Z-Axis - all holes
    • Gantry lengths - all holes
    • Long X-Axis bottom half x 8, top half optional x 8
    Tapping the front lower support for covers / drag chain / support / feet is optional. The front upper support and table support is not required to be tapped.

    A small chamfer helps guide a tap when using a powered drill.
    [​IMG]

    Cut threaded rod to required length. Smooth ends.
    [​IMG]

    Check that bearings fit over the ends (a very light sand with some fine emery paper will help a sticky bearing).
    [​IMG]

    Assembly of Z axis

    [​IMG]

    Thread ACME nut block onto ACME lead screw, with the hex nut closest to V-Slot.
    [​IMG]

    Place a locking collar onto each end.
    [​IMG]

    followed by 8mm spacers on each end,
    [​IMG]

    and lastly a bearing on each end.
    [​IMG]

    Once set up, install upper Z plate using 3 M5 x 15mm screws, each with a spring washer and standard washer. Lightly assemble finger tight.

    Install required tee-nuts to front of Z-Axis V-Slot plate. You can use masking tape to hold these in place so they don’t fall out when you are attaching the Z axis to the gantry plates.

    [​IMG]
    (yes we forgot this step and had to slip off the bottom plate and add them later on …. )

    Install screw assembly onto V-Slot and top cap and then the lower plate 3 x 15mm M5 screws, each again with a spring washer and standard washer.
    [​IMG]

    Adjust end caps as parallel as possible to the V-Slot.


    Snug down all bolts on end caps. Check alignment.

    Once snugged down, adjust threaded rod so that 10-12mm extends beyond the top plate. Lock off the 1 x locking collar on the top plate using the grub screw.


    Pushing the lead screw towards the top plate, simultaneously pull on the bottom locking collar to apply tension to the lead screw before finally locking off the grub screws on the bottom collar.


    When done correctly, there should be no lateral movement or play.

    Assembly of Front Carriage Plate

    [​IMG]


    Install spacer blocks to the front carriage plate, using 4 of M5 x 15mm screws. It is good practice at this point to square off.
    [​IMG]

    Install the M5 x 45mm screws (x6) with washers, standard where possible although you may need to use small washers where there could be clearance issues.
    [​IMG]

    Flip over. Check the orientation of the plate to ensure the eccentric holes are on the bottom of the front carriage plate.
    [​IMG]

    Place 1 x 9mm spacer on each of the M5 x 45mm screws on the right hand side of the front carriage plate. On each screw place 1 x wheel (we are using the Solid V Xtreme Wheel kit) and nyloc nut.
    [​IMG]

    On the left hand side of the front carriage plate, place 1 x 6mm eccentric spacer, along with a 3mm spacer on each of the M5 x 45mm screws.

    Note: You can do these around the other way (the eccentrics on the right hand side and the 9mm spacers on the left), this is purely our preference.

    [​IMG]
    Install the Z-Axis. Drop wheels onto the right hand side, along with nyloc.

    Here comes the tricky part! Whilst holding the front carriage plate up, insert 2 of the M5 x 20mm screws into the ACME nut block.

    Lightly snug the 6 wheels. Once all snug, tighten the right hand side (with the 9mm spacers).
    On the left hand side, adjust the eccentrics until the wheels have light tension.

    Tighten screws into the ACME nut block.

    Movement should be smooth.
     
    #1 Jestah, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
    GrayUK and mybuild14 like this.
  2. GrayUK

    GrayUK Master
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    Excellent Job, Jestah!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
    You know you have got too follow this through.
    I wait in anticipation. :D

    Thanks
    Gray
     
  3. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Master
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    Love the step by step photographs, this is so helpful.
    It's funny when all the open build parts arrive each in its own little bag. I looked and thought what have I got myself into! It took me a few attempts with a number of the assemblies because I forgot a part. For example the wheels I assembled them all, but failed to put the spacer inside. Tightened one down then went back to the video. Duh that's why I had spare spacers...

    I also started tapping all the holes by hand, then resorted to hand power drill, it's so much easier and faster with power drill, spin one direction, spin back a little, repeat. Cutting grease is a must as you know...

    Your pictures will really help other people!

    Great build log, I wish you well...
     
    #3 sgspenceley, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  4. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Excellent build details Jestah. :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  5. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    Thanks for the kind words and encouragement! I found I was often having to go back quite a few steps to put in a missing part or more tee nuts (spindle mount, spoil board brackets etc). I hope this can act as a reference to allow anyone to build an Ox with as little fuss as possible, lower the fear factor for newcomers to our hobby and also give us a document to include with our router kits.

    Really glad this guide may help others and please feel free to let me know if anything is unclear or if there are simpler methods to assemble a Ox style router.

    I would like to take a moment to give a MASSIVE thanks to my amazing girlfriend, Mel, who is making sure my endless ranting and chicken scratch notes become readable, makes sense to a new CNC builder and correcting my horrendously bad spelling!

    *selfless promotion warning*

    Feel free to check out our site www.CNCkits.co.nz !!!

    Assembly of Front Carriage

    Exploded-Carriage-square.jpg

    You can choose to use M5 x 65mm hardware for this. We are using longer hardware cut down to ensure the bearing runs upon a smooth shaft. To note, the M5 x 65mm hardware has issues with the clearance of the front gantry plate as it’s a close fit.
    Bolt-cutdown.jpg

    PHOTO OF CLEARANCE ISSUE to come

    Place a standard M5 washer on each of the M5 bolts.
    add-washer.jpg

    Insert one bolt each into the four corners of the front carriage plate. Please note the use of four small cups to allow easy assembly.
    Add-Carriage-front-assembly.jpg

    Apply two eccentrics to the lower two bolts and on top of that, a 3mm spacer. On the top bolts, apply one 9mm spacer each. The large spacer size (9mm) was used to give more clearance because of the use of washers on the front carriage plate.
    add-first-eccentrics-and-spacers.jpg

    Add one solid V wheel on each post.
    Add-solid-V-wheels.jpg

    Add 1 x 9mm spacer on each post
    add-9mm-spacers.jpg

    followed by a second solid V wheel on each post
    add-more-v-wheels.jpg

    one precision shim (5mm x 10mm x 1mm)
    Add-precision-shim.jpg

    On the bottom two posts, add 6mm eccentric spacers, on the top two posts add a 6mm spacers.
    add-6mm-spacers-and-eccecntrics.jpg

    Apply rear carriage plate.
    Add-rear-carriage-plate.jpg

    Apply a standard washer
    add-washers-2.jpg

    and spring washer to each bolt (The spring washer could be omitted if you use nyloc nuts)
    Add-spring-washers.jpg

    and a standard/nyloc nut
    Add-nuts.jpg

    Tighten all nuts to half the travel of the spring washer (this is part of the reason why we use spring washers as it allows up to achieve even tension while adjusting parts of the machine).
    Spacer-and-wheel-stack.jpg

    Align all eccentrics to their largest clearance, notch facing downward. Using a square, snug up all four bolts, doing opposite diagonals.
    Make-square.jpg

    This is a good opportunity to set your eccentrics. Get it running well on the gantry beans but we recommend the final tightening once the machine is assembled.
    Carriage-eccentric-rough-snugging.jpg
     
    #5 Jestah, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
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  6. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Master
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    Good luck with the new business.
    I think the photographs in addition to the videos are a great building aid.
     
  7. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    I could not agree more! We recommend all new CNC builders watch the assembly Videos before they start as they really give a good feel for the more complicated parts of the assembly that are hard to describe on paper. Watching the videos also helps people get a feel for how much time and effort (not a lot really ;) ) goes into building a ox but obviously this resource is a little hard to keep up to date.

    We hope the photos can give us document that can be tweaked a little as the build evolves over time.
     
  8. snokid

    snokid Veteran
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    great job love the red anodizing...
     
  9. Serge E.

    Serge E. Master
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    Excellent step by step, as others mentioned. Indeed, to update a full length video because of a tweak can be a lot of work (not to end with wearing a different shirt, for example, a few seconds part way into the video).

    I wished I had thought of taking such well organized photos when I first got into my build. The photos would of been a great feature to the OXcalculator. Now, I'll have to get more parts (rather than disassemble myOX one more time ...) to garnish the calculator in a future update. :oops:
     
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  10. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I'm thinking I may just have to give this anodizing thing a go ;)
    Hard part is finding the acid :banghead:
     
  11. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    It's the same stuff that's in your car battery - easy enough to obtain here in the UK :)

    Tweakie.
     
  12. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    Yes I know, it is strictly monitored here in canada :(
    I could empty some battery's but was hoping to not have to resort to that as getting a clean solution may prove difficult
     
  13. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    Well a few favours cashed in with the UPS guys I deal with at my day job got me what I was looking for :)

    image.jpg

    Some times it pays to be a nice guy ;)
     
    #13 Robert Hummel, Jan 14, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2015
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  14. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    Got the next step done, photo taken, edited and a rough type up of where we are up to....
    View attachment 6237

    later tonight we format and post up the full log to the above point.

    Only issue is if I keep posting to the build page its is going to be HUGE, take forever to load and become a bit of pain....

    Mods - Is it ok if I drop a few placeholder posts down and then add build sections into them. I will try to keep these early pages up to date so the build info is condensed in the first few pages of posts?
     
  15. GrayUK

    GrayUK Master
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    PM Mark. He will let you know.

    Gray
     
  16. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    I don't see any problem with that, in fact it's a sensible thing to do. :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  17. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    I just knew you would find a way. :D

    Tweakie.
     
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  18. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    place holder
     
  19. Jestah

    Jestah Veteran
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    place holder
     
  20. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    Well I ran into another obstacle, the power supply.
    Took care of it by sifting through my junk bins and utilizing some off cuts of 20x80 :)
    image.jpg
    I added two outputs so that I can anodize more then one item at a time or have two contact points ;)
     
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  21. KerryH

    KerryH Journeyman
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    I would love to see some details on this little build!
     
  22. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    I did some searching and came across this video on YouTube.

    I don't want to sound like an *** but the commentary is very,,,,, hmmmm informative but reminded me of a green muppet ;)

    image.jpg

    I had everything on hand, added a 1000uf 25v elec cap and cooling fan.
    Then housed it all in an enclosure designed with sketchucam
     
    #22 Robert Hummel, Jan 16, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
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  23. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
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    Back to the build sorry if I high jacked your thread
     
  24. GrayUK

    GrayUK Master
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    Hi Robert.
    You've been using that spare time again, haven't you!!
    Have you had a look at this? Colouring Titanium.



    Quite amazing with regard to an electric charge and colour!
    Gotta be your next step.
    Gray
     
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  25. Serge E.

    Serge E. Master
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    You should make that (DIY anodizer) a separate build. Very interesting ... safety issues (with the chemicals and all), but could be something a few of us would want to get into for projects.
     
  26. Serge E.

    Serge E. Master
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    In all fairness, he wrote in his YouTube posting he had some allergy going on ... but the other three videos in the short series had the same voice (must of been done over a short span of time, eh ?)

    This is fantastic. Looks so much easier than what some of the other content found on the net was making it too be. Low voltage and amps as well ...

    A few questions though, being green myself :

    Is the 'about 1 hour' in acid bath regardless of part volume ?
    The diluted acid, rinse water, dye bath and sealer bath can be reused for how many pieces and over how much time ?
    Aside from the safety aspects, especially with storing the stuff (acid fumes ?), anything in particular to keep in mind ?

    The other three videos in his series go on to show a few techniques, such as anodizing with Sharpie markers to draw/write rather than just plain one colour anodizing. :rolleyes: :cool:
     
  27. Serge E.

    Serge E. Master
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    Please, have a resource or whatnot on your anodizing 'build'. I'll follow (although my questions have been asked seconds ago).
     
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  28. GrayUK

    GrayUK Master
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    Obviously it depends on your usage. How long is a piece of string ect.
    Most are talking about 9 to 12 months for each mix.
    I thought about using plastic guttering for lengths of slot aluminium.
    Gray
     
  29. snokid

    snokid Veteran
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    I did it a long time ago, I anodized a paintball gun, seems like I had Muriatic Acid drain cleaner and rit dye.
    I used a rubermaid container and a battery charger.
    once you etch the metal seems like you stop the process with the drain cleaner then boil in dye.
    remember you are etching the metal so if you have a hole that you want a certain size you might need to undersize it a little, had this problem on the first gun I did.
    hope my memory is right so take this with a grain of salt.....
     
  30. bobt

    bobt Veteran
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